Among the many beautiful tropical islands in the Philippines, Calauit is indeed a delightful anomaly. It is part of the Calamianes, a cluster of islands in Northern Palawan that is famous for pristine white sand beaches, limestone karst formations and excellent shipwreck dives. Calauit has none of these though, but instead has African wildlife freely roaming all over the 3,400 hectare island.

The animals' long journey from Kenya began in the 70s when President Ferdinand Marcos declared Calauit as a game preserve and wildlife sanctuary by virtue of Proclamation No. 1578. He then ordered a total of 104 heads of 8 exotic animals: bushbucks, elands, gazelles, giraffes, impalas, topis, waterbucks and zebras to help propagate these African species.

L-R: Some of the animals at Calauit: zebras, elands, giraffes, porcupines and Calamian deer. Our guide told us that we were lucky that morning because we saw the eland, which rarely come out at this time of the day.

Aside from adjusting to the tropics, these animals have to coexist with other endemic Philippine animals that were also introduced in the island to also preserve and to propagate their dwindling kind. These are the Calamian Deer, the Philippine Crocodile, and the Palawan Bearcat among many others. When my friend and I went to Coron early this year, we ditched another island hopping tour just so we can visit Calauit. Since we could not find other people to join us and split the cost of an A/C van or an outrigger boat, we rode on motorbikes instead. Later on, we would realize that this decision paid off as we also got to see and experience the Western portion of the Busuanga mainland.

Upper left then CW: Malacachao port, walking towards the pavillion, visitor center at the CGPWS.

After 3 hours on the road, we finally arrived at Malacachao. A small boat then transported us to the Calauit Game Preserve and Wildlife Sanctuary (CGPWS). A family on vacation arrived a few minutes later, which also shared the truck rental with us. This truck took us around the island but we ocassionaly stopped a few times to see the animals from a safe distance. It is indeed amazing to note that after more than three decades, the animals are still roaming around Calauit. A 2005 survey showed that most of the remaining species have infact increased in number. What is worrysome to note however, is the fact that this was achieved largely, through in-breeding which is very detrimental to the animals in the long run. Due to budget constraints, no additional animals have been introduced to the flock since 1977. When I asked our tour guide that morning if there was also a resident veterinarian who could look after the animals he answered that there was none. This is not the only issue that continue to haunt the helpless animals at Calauit. Back in the 70s, the bamboo forests were all cut down to recreate the animals' barren habitat in Africa. The Tagbanuas, who were the original inhabitants in the island, were then relocated to nearby islands as a result. But in 2010, they were granted certificate of ancestral domain title (CADT) of Calauit. This means that they have the sole rights to live and to develop Calauit which has been their home long before the first giraffe ever set foot on the island. However, some local government units in Palawan questioned the legality of the CADT. What would happen next to the remaining giraffes, zebras and all the animals in Calauit is anyone's guess indeed. It is quite a complex issue, one that straddles between looking after the animals' welfare and addressing the long struggles on an indigenous people group. I could only hope that the Tagbanaus, the Palawan Council for Sustainable Development (PCSDC), the Provincial Government of Palawan and the rest of Calauit's present stakeholders could come up with a realistic solution very soon as the animals' future depend on their policies, their cooperation and their mutual understanding. But for the time being, I am just happy that we were able to experience an African safari, (or a resemblance of the real deal that is) in a tropical country such as the Philippines. Calauit may indeed be a delightful, albeit complicated anomaly, but it is still one interesting destination that should be experienced in this part of the world. ----------How to get there The animals only come out during the few hours in the morning or when the sun is not scorching hot. This means that you have to leave your hotels at Coron earlier because the travel time to Calauit is around 3-4 hours. The park's various fees are posted here. Public transportation to Calauit is hard to come by. The most convenient options are via A/C van (~Php6000) and bangka (motorized outrigger boat, ~Php7500 good for 5 pax). The costs may change from time to time, so drop by Owen Ferrer's DIY Coron Site for updates. Alternatively, you may also try out getting there on motorbikes. Please contact Sir Boyet (+639282929884) regarding the budget-friendly rental fees and other details. The exciting trip to Malacachao is worth it for those who want a different kind of adventure. From there, it is just a brief bangka ride (Php400, 2-way) to Calauit.
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The Church of the Immaculate Conception of San Agustin or more popularly known as the San Agustin Church in Intramuros, Manila is considered as the oldest church in the Philippines. It was built by the Augustinian friars from 1586 to 1606. This is also one of the four Baroque Churches in the country which are inscribed to the UNESCO World Heritage Site list.

These four churches are unique interpretations of the prevalent architectural movement in Europe at that time. These were built by the natives and local artisans using whatever construction materials that is available in a tropical country like the Philippines. The resulting style is a curious mix of Western sensibilities with unmistakable Asian undertones. Where else would you see a church that have both Corinthian columns on its facade and Chinese Fu dogs beside its main entrance?

The left photo shows a Chinese Fu dog behind Carlos Celdran.

The present San Agustin church in Manila's old walled city however, is not the original 16th century structure. It is actually the fourth, after its predecessors have succumbed to numerous fire and one pirate attack. It is also the only structure in Intramuros that survived World War II. It was spared from the air raids as the church served as a war hospital during that time. I just knew about this surprising historical tidbit when two of my friends and I attended a Carlos Celdran tour last month. It was also my first time to get inside the church because during the few times that I've been to the place, there is always a wedding that is being held. I finally saw its beautiful trompe l'oeil paintings on its ceilings. The flat surfaces as a result, convey surprising depth and dimension.

When you look up San Agustin's ceilings, you have to remind yourself from time to time that what you are seeing are just paintings.

If not for the ongoing mass, we would have walked further towards one side chapel near the altar where the remains of Miguel Lopez de Legazpi and Juan Luna are interred. That would be reserved perhaps for another walking tour someday. But for the meantime, I am just glad that I could finally feature the San Agustin Church in this small blog. With its history that spans more than four centuries, it rightfully earns the title of being 'the mother of all Philippine churches.' And in more ways than one, it will continue to be a part of the history of both the present and future Filipino generations. ---------- The other UNESCO-inscribed Philippine Baroque Churches are as follows:Church of San Agustín in Paoay, Ilocos NorteChurch of Nuestra Señora de la Asuncion in Sta Maria, Ilocos SurChurch of Santo Tomas de Villanueva in Miagao, Iloilo
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If not for a small metal cross, the Parish of the Holy Sacrifice, a small church in the University of the Philippines in Diliman, could easily be mistaken for a flying saucer. Well, it does not look like most Philippine churches elsewhere with its circular shape, doorless entrances and an altar smacked in the middle. And in the absence of an ornate retablo, a double-sided crucifix is suspended instead at the center of the church's thin shell concrete dome.

This was then the vision of Fr. John Delaney, S.J, the Diliman Catholic Chaplain in 1955: 'a chapel that is open and can easily accommodate 1,000 people.' The idea was probably unheard of that time but Leandro Locsin captured and executed it very well nonetheless.

Locsin was not the only who contributed to the ambitious project too. On the church's walls, Vicente Manansala and Ang Kiukok painted beautiful depictions of the 14 stations of the cross including an extra resurrection scene. The crucifix and the marble altar were then done by Napoleon Abueva. The floor of the church, depicting a mosaic mural called 'River of Life' was by Arturo Luz.

When you come to think of it, these murals by Manansala and Ang Kiukok are now priceless works of art.

All these men are probably familiar to most Filipinos by now. These are some of the country's National Artists for architecture and visual arts. But back then, they were not yet bestowed with this prestigious honor. They were probably just happy and willing to pitch in their talents just to help realize the UP Catholic community's ' dream of having a visible symbol of their faith.' The Parish of the Holy Sacrifice is then more than just a realization of that dream. It is also a living testament to the artistry and ingenuity of the Filipino. It was rightfully declared as a National Cultural Treasure by the National Museum and a National Historical Landmark by the National Historical Institute in 2005. So if you happen to drop by UP Diliman campus anytime soon, make sure to visit the Parish of the Holy Sacrifice. This unimposing flying saucer adjacent to the UP Shopping Center, is in fact a rare collaboration of five National Artists of the Philippines. It is indeed a cultural treasure that should never be overlooked.
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The Divine Mercy Shrine in El Salvador City in the province of Misamis Oriental is just a brief drive from our place in Cagayan de Oro. Since its inauguration in 2008, many pilgrims have been visiting this site. Some are praying for a miraculous healing of a sick loved one, while there are those who have made it a solemn vow to visit regularly the place after experiencing one. There are also many others who are just faithful devotees of the Divine Mercy, who do not consider the shrine as a mere tourist spot.

But I’ve only visited this pilgrimage site one afternoon last year. My sister and I were running errands in the city back then, and I managed to convince her to make an unexpected detour to El Salvador before heading back home. I explained to her that this could be our only chance to visit the place and that this is one of the many overdue items in my imaginary bucket list. I was surprised that she agreed with the plan knowing that if she was given the luxury of a choice, she would do something else than frolic under the unforgiving midday sun.

The shrine’s premises was largely empty when we arrived. But if we should visit it again on a weekend or during a special event, the 11.5 hectare property would be swamped with devotees. I could say that except for some staff, we had the entire complex and its sprawling lawn to ourselves that time. The Shrine is said to be the largest statue of Jesus Christ in the Philippines. At 50 ft and located in a hill 500 ft above sea level, it seems to watch over the beautiful sea and the nearby municipalities as well. Two rays, red and white, radiate from the center of the statue, symbolizing the blood and water that flowed from Jesus during his crucifixion. The rays hide the staircases that allow the pilgrims to climb to the top. Around the shrine are a church, retreat centers and sites for future buildings. All these were not the product of someone’s random wish. According to a prayer group that conceived this vision, God has been telling them since 1993 that they build the shrine. It took them awhile though considering the sizable amount they have to raise to purchase the lot and the materials in building the statue. But out of sheer faith, they were able to gather more than enough funds from various donors worldwide. They were finally able to build the shrine in just three years, from 2005 to 2008. We only spent a few minutes at the shrine as I have to catch the afternoon flight back to Manila. Despite the hurried pace, I still treasure our unexpected yet memorable drive to the Divine Mercy Shrine. ----------How to get there There are jeepneys and buses that regularly ply from Cagayan de Oro to El Salvador. Just to tell the conductor that you are headed for the Divine Mercy Shrine. After you alight by the junction, you may hire a habal-habal (motorbikes) to get to the complex. Please also take note that one has to be in modest clothing before granted entrance to the shrine’s premises. But in case you are not in the prescribed attire, an appropriate body cover is provided for you to use.
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My friends from South Cotabato in Southern Philippines, are organizing a trek to Lake Holon on August 19-20, 2012. The event is called 'Takladtamig Dos,' which means 'let us climb, my friend' or something to that effect, in Hiligaynon. This is open not just for mountaineers but also for those who have never climbed anything in their lifetime but have a love for the outdoors. I remember that our unforgettable Holon hike a few years back was not difficult, probably because I was in the company of good friends and because I enjoyed the beautiful sceneries along the way.

Lake Holon, is the serene and beautiful crater lake of Mt. Parker/Mt. Melibengoy, an inactive stratovolcano in the municipality of T'boli. Both the lake and the mountain are considered sacred by the Tbolis who have been living in the vicinity for as long as they could remember. The mountain is also rich in biodiversity, which was almost wiped out by a man-made disaster sometime in 1995. It has however, amazingly bounced back from that unfortunate incident and is now one of the emerging hiking destinations in the country.

Admittedly, our Lake Holon photos looked like it was taken from just another lake elsewhere. I thought that an aerial photo of the caldera provides the much needed context for a perfect Holon shot. I am personally glad that someone finally nailed that big time. (Photo courtesy of Louie Pacardo.)

I've personally met some of the Takladtamig's organizers during my few visits to South Cotabato. Although they are independent mountaineers, they call their group FHM or Friends of Holon and Melibingoy. What I particularly like about this bunch is that they are not just climbing for climbing's sake. They also endeavor to give something back to the community every time.

Barangay Salacafe

They planted trees and distributed school supplies during their latest climb. For Takladtamig Dos, they require each participant to bring a pair of tsinelas or slippers which would be used by the kids at Barangay Salacafe, the usual jump-off to Holon. I gather that they are brewing similar activities such as this in their future adventures. So if you are in the region during the long weekend, why not head to South Cotabato and join Takladtamig Dos. But if that is not possible, you may also donate a pair or two or even more slippers instead. The contact numbers of the key organizers are provided below. The Php500 registration covers for the transportation to and from Barangay Salacafe, climb ID and T-Shirt, entrance fee and planting materials. For inquiries, please contact Stella (+639197475721), Julz (+639089373130) and Louie (+639213885455). You may also visit the official Takladtamig FB page here for updates.
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I was surprised when Herbert's package finally arrived a few days ago. I told him last week that it would probably take a month before the books would be delivered knowing how our public postal office takes to heart what 'snail mail' really means. Herbert assured me that it would arrive sooner than I thought, considering that his shipment to Atlanta only took three weeks. I consoled myself that at the very least, it would come with a good ol' postage stamp, which is something that FedEx could never replicate.

The brown Manila envelope was suspiciously mangled but nonetheless, the books were in good condition. Perhaps the titles were not interesting enough to be stolen. What the petty thieves failed to realize is that these are great books on mountaineering, which are quite rare to find in this part of the world: Messner's Free Spirit, Tabor's Forever on the Mountain and Boukreev's The Climb.

In addition to the books on mountaineering, my sister also gave me Stewart's The Places in Between.

Herbert must have spent a lot of time at Booksale branches in Cebu just to find all these. But finding one good book in this bookstore would involve some stroke of luck and tons of patience. He was then quite kind to allow me to borrow his precious finds. I remember that he also lent me his copy of Into Thin Air as a mental preparation of some sort in climbing Mt. Apo. Krakauer's account of the 1996 Everest tragedy, placed in me a reverence for the mountains and a better perspective in climbing one. I am quite excited to read these new books, especially The Climb which is Boukreev's rebuttal to Krakauer's account. However all these would also join an already long queue of titles that I have yet to read. The irony of it all is that long before I decided to share my small travels and silly adventures, my first ever blog entry was actually about a book. Back then I was worried of coming up with just two paragraphs. So to fool everyone that it was a lengthy write-up, I placed Puddleglum's reply which then occupied almost two-thirds of blog space. In one way or the other, Herbert's package reminded me of some of the things that I also enjoy doing - books, the outdoors among many others. I could only wish then that in the next few months, I would also be able to share some book reviews in this blog. But for the meantime, I must finish what I am currently reading, before I could finally dig into my new books.

A few weeks back, I caught up with an old friend who is now based in Cagayan de Oro. Over some slices of cake and cups of coffee, we shared what we have been up to since our last meeting at Cebu. There was no specific agenda that afternoon. We just talked about the things that matter and even that those do not, in our small happy lives.

I was also delighted to learn that my friend has also done some traveling of her own. Her most recent one I gather, was in Iligan City which is just 1.5 hours away from Cagayan de Oro. She was then able to visit my alma mater, the Mindanao State University - Iligan Insitute of Technology (MSU-IIT), because they performed a few tests in one of our laboratories there.

"Kuya Bren, your school is kinda spooky," she said. There was no hint of sarcasm or mercy or even humor on her face when she dropped that bomb. She also added that that our restrooms could be convincing sets for a Japanese horror movie and that Sadako could come right out of the cubicles anytime.

I somehow managed to gather my composure after how she described our campus and the college where I came from. I sipped my coffee and then just broke into a smile. At the back of my mind, she was probably right too. I also don't know how MSU-IIT looks now, because it's been awhile since I last visited my beloved campus.

The MSU-IIT that I remember does not have tall acacia trees or post-world war buildings. It was chartered only in 1968 and has been an autonomous external campus if the MSU System ever since. Its total area is just approximately 9 hectares. So if you compare it with other universities in the Philippines, it is relatively young and small as well. And just like all the other state colleges and universities in the country, our school has also experienced several budget cuts through the years. But despite these setbacks, we were still able to consistently produce top-caliber graduates, embark on various academic researches and forge meaningful dialogues especially with the diverse communities in Mindanao. All these were partly possible because of our fruitful collaboration with various local government agencies, private organizations and international universities.

Festive Maranao celebrations are often held in our gymnasium.

So even if the tuition fee is very affordable (when I graduated, one unit costs only Php 12.00), our professors see to it that the students, especially those coming from Mindanao, would still enjoy the same quality of education no matter what. We learned as a result, how to make the most out of this opportunity and out of everything else that comes our way. We do not have stories about headless priests or mysterious dorm joggers or floating corpses. The only campus legends that I know of are the exceptional students, not only those with latin honors but also those who are undeniably brilliant in their own chosen fields - in various businesses, the arts, the academe, research and development and pretty much everything else in between. What I particularly liked about them is that they just work diligently in the background and that they never yearned for the limelight even if their successes deserve some form of media attention. Well, it is understandable that you can be so married to your own alma maters. We always see this in various college competitions and debate rivalries and even up to our present working environments. But I think that remaining humble with what you have achieved before and after your graduated in college - this virtue is one of the better ways you can honor the ideals of your alma mater. We have our own share of airheads mind you, but the alumnis I referred to, have in that regard, honored MSU-IIT in more ways than one.

This sight in our college building probably scared my good friend.

I have too many fond memories of my school, but this is the MSU-IIT that I knew or that which I tried to squeeze in just a few paragraphs. Yes, some of our buildings may look spooky but it is the students, the teachers and the staff that breathe life to all its seemingly empty corridors and to every dimly-lit corner in the campus. Despite being hard-pressed in recent times, it is one of the best academic institutions in this part of the world.MSU-Iligan Institute of Technology Andres Bonifacio Avenue, Tibanga, 9200 Iligan City, Philippineshttp://www.msuiit.edu.ph/ Telephone: +63 63 221-4056 | +63 63 492-1173 Facsimile: +63 63 351-6173
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The pack of kasuy or cashew nuts that you usually buy as pasalubong in Coron, Palawan has a story to tell. It involves a rather long and laborious process - from harvesting the cashew fruit and then meticulously splitting each seed, from removing the seed's kernel and then drying the nuts under the sun, and from deep frying the nuts in a hot wok and finally ending up as the delicious bite-sized delicacy in your hand.

For Nanay Lita Escarda, the business of cashew nuts is all these labor-intensive processes, plus so much more. These irresistable goodies have provided a steady source of income for her family through the years. She started out small back in the 1970s and since then, Coron's famous pasalubong is already synonymous with her lastname.

Mrs. Escarda's store is small, unassuming and is just a mere extension of her home. If not for a simple signage, there is no indication that Coron's famous cashew nuts are in fact processed, cooked and sold here.

My friend and I dropped by Escarda's, on our last full day at Coron many months back. Nanay Lita regrettably told us that afternoon that all her cashew nuts have already been sold out. But she advised us to come back the next day. We then reserved a few kilos (Php 700.00 a kilo) and had it re-packed by 100 grams as well.

Nanay Lita also gave us a crash course on investing that afternoon. She told us to consider investing in real estate since the value of land will never depreciate.

The cashew nuts may seem expensive but we would later find out this price tag is quite reasonable. Since we arrived early the following morning, Nanay Lita was kind enough to allow us to take a peek at her cashew factory which is just located at the back of her house. I expected a modern production line but instead saw a few tables, some baskets, and a large wok. The only important tool there is a custom-designed cashew cutter. They have to do everything else by hand. Although each process is repetitive in nature, there is a degree of difficulty and lots of skills involved in every step. For example, extracting the cashew nut from its kernel may look easy. But this, I observed, leaves a sticky stain on the fingers. You must also be very adept with this step so as to maintain the desirable half-moon shape for each nut. Indeed, our wait paid off that morning in more ways than one. We got fresh deep-fried cashew nuts that were also the best I've tasted so far. It was surprisngly not greasy after swimming in hot fat earlier. The seasonings also did not overpower the original flavor of the cashew. I now have a deep appreciation for the cashew nut, and all foods in general - from those that are served on our table up to those that end up as pasalubongs for our loved ones. Some are the end result of years of perfecting a single heirloom recipe. While there are others that were mere novelties, yet were still pursued despite the risks at the onset. Whatever the circumstances behind our food, each of these have stories to tell. It is a story that is often frought with dedication, hardwork and in certain respects, pure love. And in that regard, Nanay Lita’s delicious cashew nuts, is clearly no exception.L.Escarda's Coron Harvest Barangay Tagumpay, Coron, Palawan
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I think it was my mother who inadvertently taught me how to tune a guitar. This was a time when my fingers were too small to sustain a chord, so I just watched her gently strum and then re-tune each string. She usually starts with the upper string first, and then slowly makes her way down to the last. Once she is done, she would then strum a beautiful melody to check if the guitar is indeed properly tuned.

It is only recently or after spending too many hours watching YouTube covers, that I found out that the tune she was actually strumming each time was Beatles’ Here, There and Everywhere, a song that has a complex musical arrangement but with deceptively simple chords. I could only guess that this is one of her few favorites, along with songs from the Carpenters and Simon and Garfunkel.

Unfortunately, I did not become very good at playing the guitar as the years went by. I started practicing only in college, and somehow mastered Leaving On A Jet Plane and all the other similar songs with the ubiquitous D-A-G-A harmony. But there was one rare instance where I was forced to tune a guitar because there was no one else who could. Thankfully I could still recall the pattern of guitar strokes that my mom has been using. You see, today is my mom’s birthday. I remember promising her a new guitar a few years back since our old one already broke down. It is not only an overdue gift, but also a simple token of appreciation for all the sacrifices she has made for our family. She lovingly took care of my dad even up to this day, which is one long and humbling journey, to say the least. She composed most of my Grade 4 writing assignments, accompanied me in my college enrolment and comforted me during our family’s recent trying times. She gave up many of her personal dreams just so my sister and I can pursue ours. I wish to honor her with this simple blog entry, but even the most eloquent of words could never fully describe my mom’s strength, perseverance and humility. I am very grateful then that God made someone as beautiful as my mom on this day many years ago. 9/11 for most of the world would mean a tragedy of unspeakable terms. 9/11 for us, however, would always mean a joyful celebration of my mom’s life, one that is well lived, selflessly shared, and fully blessed. I am not buying you anything today mom. But I’ll be saving this month so I could finally buy the guitar that I promised. I look forward to the moment where you would tune and then strum it for the first time. I have memorized that Beatles song already, so perhaps dad, my delightfully obnoxious sister if she’s around and I, could finally sing along with you.

Busuanga in Northern Palawan is often overlooked compared to Coron, even if the hordes of tourists that flock to the latter have to enter and leave via the Francisco B. Reyes Aiport, the only airport in the island. The few minutes they spent at this airport are to some extent, the only time they spent at 'the other municipality' in the Busuanga island.

But it was not the case for my friend and I, after we included Calauit as part of our Coron adventures early this year. I could now consider it as a blessing in disguise when we could not find 'joiners' with us in feeding the few remaining African animals at Calauit. We rode on motorbikes instead, since the cost of hiring an A/C van or an outrigger boat, the usual options in getting to Calauit island, is quite steep to be divided by only two persons.

This I gather, is a rather unpopular choice as the roads to Calauit are largely unpaved. This bumpy ride also came with free face powder from incoming vehicles and generous helpings of Vitamin D from the midday sun. Add to that the fact that straddling on a motorbike for hours is not the most comfortable position for your family jewels.

Top left then CW: Dayon Kamo Lodge, Pierhouse Palace and Puerto del Sol Resorts

After Calauit, we headed straight for Salvacion to take our lunch at Dayon Kamo Lodge. This was also where we had our early breakfast that day. We also took a brief, yet much needed rest here for the long journey ahead. On our way back to Coron, we visited a few exclusive resorts that dot the scenic Western Busuanga coast – Rio Playa Beach Resort, Pierhouse Palace and Puerto del Sol.

Concepcion Falls

But the most pleasant surprise for me that afternoon was seeing Concepcion Falls, which is probably the island’s only waterfall. You see, I expected only to see spectacular limestone karst formations, white sand beaches, and the blue seas that weekend. It never occurred to me that there should be a spring or a body of freshwater somewhere in the island that would supply the drinking water needs of both its tourists and residents. The waterfall is small, yet beautifully hidden amidst tall trees. The locals frequent this place to cool down from the sweltering heat. There were no entrance fees collected and no visible signage too. I remember though that it was just a very short hike from the main highway or ‘somewhere at kilometer 41,’ according to Sir Boyet, who rented us the motorbikes we rode on. He was also the one who recommended that we drop by this waterfall and all the other stops we made earlier. When we met him on our first evening at Coron, I am under the impression that he really knows every nook and cranny in the island. I could not recall seeing distance markers during our trip. Sir Boyet probably surveyed all these sites a long time ago and already knew by heart the various places that we should not miss. Our final stop that afternoon was the San Vicente Ferrer Chapel, a charming little church situated on a hill. There are 76 concrete steps that lead to this church, which is made up of indigenous materials – shells, small stones and coconut. From a distance, one can see alternating and contrasting hues of the Busuanga mainland and the sea, the brown hills from afar and the blue horizon; a picturesque finish indeed to all the stops we made that day. We started our trip at around 4:30 AM and got back to our inn at almost 5:00 PM. I think we have traveled a total of at least 160 kms or almost 6 hours on mostly dirt roads. It is a tiring, rugged and mad endeavor. But the unfamiliar and beautiful sights we saw on our way to Calauit and back, more than made up for the dusty feet, the aching muscles and the scorched faces we got afterwards. There are plenty of touristy activities that can be had at Coron – the inescapable organized tours, shipwreck diving and climbing Mt. Tapyas, just to name a few. But if you want to escape from it all, Busuanga which is largely ignored, offers a different, off-the-beaten yet strangely rewarding adventure. ----------Boyet Motorcycle Rental and Carwash Station Barangay 5, Coron, Palawan +639282929884
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Jolo port at dawn.

Drinking coffee was the first thing that my friend and I did in Sulu, a beautiful island located in Southern Philippines. This is also a province in Mindanao that has been marred with decades of conflict, mired in poverty and conveniently forgotten by the rest of the country.

When our ship from Zamboanga City docked at the busy Jolo port, the early morning sun cast a beautiful fiery glow just beyond the majestic Mt. Tumangtangis, the highest mountain in the island. Small bangkas whizzed past behind our ferry, carrying the day's catch.

I missed the usual early Muslim prayer that time because when I woke up, everyone else was already on their feet and doing what they have to do on a wonderful Saturday morning. Porters were already shuffling back and forth carrying some of the passengers' cargoes. While there were others onboard who looked happy after seeing their loved ones waiting for them nearby.

Top left photo shows how a typical brew at Dennis Coffee shop is done.

We then walked towards one of the branches of Dennis Coffee Shop, which seemed to be the only establishment open at that hour. By its entrance is a cabinet, the shelves of which were stacked with freshly cooked bang-bang, the Tausug versions of kakanin (small snack). As soon as our orders of coffee were brought to our table, the aroma of the morning's fresh brew filled the place. I also noticed that coffee in these parts is poured on pretty yellow glasses. One can only marvel at its ability to withstand the heat.

My best glass of coffee so far.

Nonetheless, it was the best coffee I've had in recent memory. It had a black, full and rich flavor but it surprisingly did not leave an acidic feel afterwards. It is probably close to an Arabica blend, if I am not mistaken. But aside from the really good coffee beans, I also admire at how each drink was brewed. The ground beans, we learned, were slowly roasted for many hours over charcoal-fired heat. Before we knew it, the place was quickly filled up by people who looked like they just wanted to stop by Dennis for a quick caffeine fix. They also do not look like the kind who linger in coffeshops to read a good book, talk about the weather or discuss yesterday's news. In coffeeshops like Dennis, it is all about the coffee. You drink one good cup, eat some snacks and then leave. Plates and plates of bang-bangs were then successively delivered which completed the incredible, interesting and delicious spread before us. I thought to myself that if you have breakfast this good, you'll probably ditch your croissants and waffles anytime. A college teacher approached our table probably because he was curious as to why we were talking about the different kinds of bang-bangs before us. I jotted down some of the local delicacies that he helped identify - the que talam, pasong, putli mandi, baolu and the junay. He added that all these are traditional Tausug delicacies. They looked different from the usual fare served elsewhere in the Philippines and had to some extent, Malay undertones. But there were also some that are familiar to me such as the biko and the boiled egg of course. Other than these two, the rest are new to my taste. We don't have to finish everything off, he assured us. Like most eateries/coffeeshops in this region, you only pay for what you ate. He then asked why we visited Jolo. This was not the first time we were asked that unavoidable question. I lost count too as to the number of the times this was raised, before, during and even after this trip. The funny thing is that I recall answering a little bit differently each time, but without straying too far from our original intentions. However, the explanation we gave to a retired government employee, our gracious host and our overqualified tour guide that day, probably summed up why we traveled to Jolo in the first place. My initial impression of him was that he looked too young for retirement. You could also sense by his careful choice of words, peppered with wisdom and humor, that he has seen both the good and the bad in Jolo throughout his decades of service in the government. My friend told him that we wanted to experience the Tausug culture and to see Jolo beyond the little we knew about it from our history classes. Well, aside from the Abu Sayyaf, all we know about Jolo is that it is Sulu's capital, and that it is an island somewhere in between Basilan and Tawi-tawi.

Photo on the right shows Mt. Tumangtangis or 'The Crying Mountain.'

His house, which was just a brief walk from the coffee shop, was our next stop that day. We went up his rooftop and minutes later, a spread of bang-bangs and cups of Sulu coffee were served before we could even protest. We politely declined and told him that we just had our fill, but he insisted that we eat along with a durian that was freshly split open for us. I actually like the foul-smelling fruit and I could probably finish more portions than what your doctor would normally prescribe. But I do remember laughing like a drunk after eating too many durian somewhere at Magsaysay Boulevard in Davao City many years back. Our host assured us that we need not worry of our cholesterol levels because the durian in Jolo (which he also claimed is better than the ones sold at Davao), is free from pesticides and fertilizers. I don't know if I should believe him or not at that point. But surprisingly, after overfeeding on the Sulu durian, I did not experience the familiar numbness at my nape. And yes, it was the best durian I've had. Our host was probably right all along.

The Tulay Central Mosque in the background, is the largest in the island.

This was indeed one of the most memorable and unique breakfasts I've had so far. I do not get to wake up everyday sipping native Sulu coffee with durian and delicious bang-bangs on the side. All these were not only a part of a meal but also served as a foretaste of our many small adventures in Sulu afterwards. It is a reminder too that while you could google or read so many headlines about a place such as Sulu, tasting its local delicacies could actually nourish, surprise and enrich you in more ways than one. ----------How to get thereAirphilexpress has flights to Jolo from Zamboanga City. The cheaper yet longer option is via an overnight passenger ship from Zamboanga. The choices are enumerated here. The blogger strongly encourages that you coordinate your itinerary with a contact person that is based in Jolo. It would really help a lot especially in interacting with the locals and getting around, if you have someone who speaks Tausug, the local dialect.
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It is said that somewhere hidden in the jungles of Patikul are the hideouts of extremist militants. But my friend and I were not after their elusive lairs when we visited the island of Sulu in Southern Philippines early this year. On board a small vehicle, our small party of five was headed for Barangay Igasan, to see for ourselves the fabled white sand shores of Quezon Beach.

I remember that Igasan was just a 15-minute ride from Jolo, the busy capital of the Sulu province. Along the way, we passed by a few navy detachments and military checkpoints. But for the most part, the view before us was just the forest at one side of the road and a number of fishing communities on the other. Occasionally we encountered some jeepneys and a few motorbikes too. Other than these, all I heard that afternoon was the gentle hum of our vehicle’s engine. It was to some extent, a lonely yet beautiful landscape.

When we arrived at Quezon Beach, it was largely empty except for the happy kids playing by the shore. There were also few men that were already swimming nearby. They looked like college students and judging by the nice pick-up truck that they rode on and the fact that they were not speaking in Tausug, these guys were probably guests of an affluent family in Jolo. Unfortunately, the sky was overcast that afternoon so I was unable to capture a ‘typical postcard photo’ of the beach. But since it was located at the northeastern portion of the island, the perfect time to visit it would have been just before noon, when the sun would have created the ideal lighting conditions. In our original itinerary, we were supposed to take our lunch there, but our host/tour guide had something different planned for us. Despite the gloomy weather, I can still see Quezon Beach's unspoilt beauty - its fine powdery white sands, clear turquoise-like waters and wide beach front. The tall coconut trees and the small houses nearby completed its tropical yet laidback feel. There were no signages or boundary demarcations that you would expect to see in a typical beach property. If not for a few basic cottages, you might think that Quezon Beach is merely a beautiful extension of someone's backyard.

Top and bottom photos: Patikul Municipal and PNP Offices. Right photo: Halal burger.

I honestly was not planning to swim that afternoon. But the waters were too inviting to pass off. So even if we did not bring extra clothes with us, we grabbed the rare opportunity to take a quick dip. After that unexpected swim, we then ate the halal burgers we bought from Love Life Snack House. On our way back, I thought of how Quezon Beach could be fully developed to welcome more tourists in the future. I wished it would be as easy as clearing the debris off the shore or providing a secure fence around the property or putting an advertisement online. Well, it could be all these, but it would definitely need more than just these overnight makeovers. It is a long journey, I must add; a journey that should be participated not only by the diverse communities in Sulu, but also by the policymakers in both the local and national government. How long it would take could be anyone's guess. But if Quezon Beach's tourism potential is just one indication, then indeed, there is a lot to be hopeful for the future. ----------How to get thereAirphilexpress has flights to Jolo from Zamboanga City. The cheaper yet longer option is via an overnight passenger ship from Zamboanga. The choices are enumerated here. Although there are small jeepneys that ply to and from Patikul, it would still be best to rent a private vehicle since these are hard to come by. The blogger also encourages that you coordinate your itinerary and transportation arrangements with a contact person that is based in Jolo. It would really help a lot especially in interacting with the locals and getting around, if you have someone who speaks Tausug, the local dialect.
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My friend and I were surprised to find out that our gracious guide at Jolo had something else planned for us. I thought that he was well aware of our itinerary that we proposed weeks before, but we welcomed the slight change of plans anyway because we obviously had no other choice that morning.

Right after breakfast, we then drove past the busy center of downtown Jolo and headed to an upland barangay, the name of which I already forgot. Along the way, I tried to look for tell-tale signs of the famed Walled City of Jolo, the fortifications of which were said to be similar in function to that of Intramuros in Manila. The Spaniards built the walls in 1878, including two outer forts and three inner forts, to protect them from attacks from both the Moro natives and foreign invaders.

It is interesting to note that a 1921 New York Times Article described Jolo as ‘the smallest walled city in the world.’ That morning though, we only passed by modern concrete archways and small towers. How small was this walled city and what became of the fortifications – all these are indeed interesting topics that merit further scholarly research.

We stopped by a small house somewhere in the outskirts of Jolo. The house was made of light materials yet it was cozy, decent and clean inside. People were shuffling back and forth before us as they prepared the meals to be served. The festive atmosphere may also be likened to the fiesta in other parts of the Philippines. Our guide told us that they are celebrating Prophet Mohammad’s birthday or locally known as Mauluddin Nabi. Soon enough we were invited by our hosts to join them inside one of the rooms since they thought that their dining area was too small for our company. We sat on the floor and around a large metal plate that was laid on top of a carpet. On it were small plates containing various pastries locally known as bangbang - tompong, pitis, panganan among the other Tausug dishes that followed shortly. A cup of native coffee was also served along with an ‘a strangely colored blend’ as what one of our guide’s friend described. I drank it curiously only to find that it was just pineapple juice, which drew laughter from the group.

Panyam is a Tausug pastry made of rice flour and is usually served during special occasions.

Among the dishes served, the sambal was my favorite. I like spicy foods in general which is the flavor profile of most delicacies in these parts. After we profusely thanked our hosts, we then left for another celebration, which is more subdued in tone yet still equally grandiose. I remember that we alighted somewhere in Indanan, a municipality which is just located a few kilometers southwest of Jolo. Our guide told us that this time, it was a traditional Tausug vigil. Most of the the Tausug in this part of the country practice Islam. The departed loved one is buried as soon as possible, but the prayers for the dead are said afterwards, during the seventh, twentieth, fortieth and one hundredth day. It was the 20th that morning, if I am not mistaken. We missed the ceremonial prayers since we already arrived just in time for lunch to be served. The men were then seated separately from the women. I stayed beside our guide so that he could help me identify the dishes that would be served shortly. Unfortunately I was unable to take down notes that time probably because we were too engrossed in our conversations. I learned that one of the men in our table was once a child actor in a movie that was starred by Fernado Poe Jr. He never pursued a career in showbiz though. He is fine I guess with his current stint in local politics. A large red plate was then brought to our table. On it were a handful of colorful plastic plates, each containing a different delicacy. This could probably be the Tausug version of an eat-all-you-can buffet. The difference is that you don't have to discreetly queue for seconds. Once a paricular plate is almost wiped out, it is immediately refilled by the house servants. The tiyulah itum in particular, was a bestseller in our table as it was replenished more than once. It is a black, spicy soup made of beef parts mixed with burnt grated coconut.

The tiyulah itum.

Two celebrations in a less than an hour. This was probably just another day for our guide, his friends and the many others in this beautiful island. But aside from the visual and gastronomic adventure, it was an eye-opening experience for me in more ways than one. I realized that good food is a great leveler of some sort. You just can't think of anything bad to say on a full stomach. I have to thank then our guide for 'interfering' with our original itinerary. Because looking back now, I consider it a rare privilege to have been invited into a Tausug home and to take part of their celebration as well. We were accorded with a kind of hospitality that left a good, lasting impression. The few Tausug that I met that morning were curious in their questions, generous with their blessings and loved their culinary heritage. Although we have different tastes in food, but they are just really like the rest us in many, many ways. ----------How to get thereAirphilexpress has flights to Jolo from Zamboanga City. The cheaper yet longer option is via an overnight passenger ship from Zamboanga. The choices are enumerated here. The blogger strongly encourages that you also coordinate your itinerary and transportation arrangements with a contact person that is based in Jolo. It would really help a lot especially in interacting with the locals and getting around, if you have someone who speaks Tausug, the local dialect.
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Just when I started to cut down on my carbohydrates, my dad recently sent me a few kilos of nilubok - a traditionally milled rice characterized by its uneven grains. It came from somewhere in Zamboanga del Norte, although rice of this kind is common in the Cordilleras in Luzon and other highland communities in the Philippines.

If you could see from the picture above, the nilubok's grains do not look pretty. This is perhaps due to the fact that these were milled by hand. The painstaking process is done by a contraption that looks like a large mortar and pestle. I gather that the incessant pounding is calculated, careful and requires a lot of patience too to ensure that no grain falls off the ground.

The nilubok is rare nowadays as only a few farmers mill rice in this manner. A kilo of which costs more than twice the brown rice variety that I have been using lately.

What the nilubok may lack in aesthetics, it has more than made up for its fragrant aroma, nutritional value and taste. The first time I cooked the nilubok rice, I immediately noticed a wonderful smell wafting from the kitchen. The scent is akin to that of pandan or that of the dinorado rice. How it got that smell is beyond me though. Maybe because of the pounding or because of its variety or because no fertilizers were used when it was planted. My dad also added that the rice tasted so good, you won't need any viand or dish to come with it. And true enough, he was right. I could easily finish a bowl of this rice even if it is paired with pork tocino and scrambled eggs, which are just a few of my favorite dietary concessions every now and then. The nilubok came in a small box a few weeks back. My father said that it was a belated birthday present of some sort and that he hoped that it would be sufficient for me. I told him that I would never go hungry, or at least for the remaining months of the year. This heartwarming gesture reminded me of the many times I brought with me a few kilos of rice from our home to Iligan City, where I studied in college. Now that I am based in Metro Manila, I smiled at the thought that are just some things that would not change even with my imaginary resolve to embrace a healthier lifestyle. Rice is definitely one of these, and it will definitely continue to occupy a space in my kitchen cupboard wherever I find myself next.

I got an interesting planner for 2013: a FILED 2013 doodle planner. My best buddy probably thought that I could use some randomness and a lot of creativity in my life that is why he gave me this a few weeks back. It is small, handy and may be mistaken as a hardbound Hardy Boys novel.

It has the features of most planners that are peddled at this time of the year - a page for all your other things-to-do lists, monthly expense trackers and the usual weekly and monthly views of your 2013. But what probably separates this from the rest is the fact that it is glaringly devoid of any color and that it has enough space for a whimsical monster that you want to sketch or doodle.

The lack of color was easily taken cared of when I recently bought a set of colored markers that in my opinion would do the job better compared to crayons, pastel and household paint. I have little recollection of my highschool color wheels, but I am guessing that I will have to experiment again with balance, contrast and harmony in the coming days. The doodling part is something that might take me awhile to learn though. You see, I have not drawn anything in recent memory, that could be even considered as a gradeschool artwork. Well, I could probably start with Moodi, a mood tracker, that is present for every daily entry. Its outline resembles that of a gingerbread man, but it only has two tiny eyes. I am guessing that I must complete its facial expressions with whatever that I may be feeling every single day - outbursts, exhilirations, boredom and pretty much everything else in between.

Ladies and gentlemen, meet Moodi.

But I may not be able to regularly create a doodle or update my Moodi daily. I may not be even able to religiously write down all my daily tasks or finish every single one of them as well. Over the past few years that I have been using a non-electronic planner, I realized that while there are exhilarating days, there are also a lot of awfully lazy weekends. For 2013, I just hope and pray that I'll be able to attend to everything and everyone that is important in my life, to continue learning beyond my small space in this world and to fulfill my purpose all through out next year's ups and downs. I sincerely look forward then to coloring all the other pages of this planner and perhaps in the process, I might just doodle my way through 2013.

A friend of mine gave me an orc last year. It wasn't as repulsive as those in the Peter Jackson movies, as it came in a rather cute package. It is actually a Lego keychain. This was also interesting because it combined two things that are dear to me - Legos and the Lord of the Rings.

You see, I didn't have much fancy toys growing up. But I do recall my folks giving me a box of Legos when I was 8 or 9. I think that it was an airplane with a mechanic/pilot. The good thing with Legos is that you can imagine other things to create with the interlocking blocks, provided that you have enough of them at your disposal.

And so a few weeks later, I took apart the airplane and built other things as well. But soon enough, I lost interest in playing my toys too. I would not exactly call it 'growing up' but for the lack of a better term to describe it, I probably did. The Lord of the Rings part came in rather late. I remember that a good friend introduced me to Tolkien back in college, but I only got to read his famous trilogy during my board exam review. When everyone else went home or studied during our one-week break, I engrossed myself with all things Middle-earth. Well, I am just happy seeing this Orc keychain. This somehow reminded me of the happy memories of my childhood, especially those that have played, in one way or the other, important roles later on in my life.

A day before 2012 ended, I found myself in Plaridel, a 3rd class municipality which is located 45 minutes away from Oroquieta, the provincial capital of Misamis Occidental. It has a small yet vibrant sea port that services vessels that come from or headed to Tagbilaran and other islands in the Visayas.

I did a similar roadtrip many years back, so the scenes that unraveled before me that morning were familiar - vast green ricefields and quiet farming villages. This time around though, I dragged Cherry Fe, my cousin's energetic wife with me in this brief, relatively unplanned madness, just to taste again the famous pan bisaya of Plaridel.

We arrived at Plaridel shortly before 11 AM. Our trike driver told us to look for this house located at the back of the local church near the sea port. It is partly covered by a simple kawayan fence and you would not have guessed that behind this is where Plaridel's famous delicacy is made. We were then greeted by Mrs. Guillena who apologetically informed us that there were just six or so packs of the day's bread left for us. A pack costs Php 10.00 which is quite a bargain considering the bread's unique taste and the effort put into making one. Mrs. Guillena added that her husband kneads the dough the old way or by hand, which is why their bread is called as 'bisaya.' It is then baked into a pugon or a wood-fired oven. They only make two batches daily, one in the morning and the other in the afternoon, to guarantee freshness every time. The bread is noticeably heavier in comparison to those being sold from franchise bakeshops elsewhere. It smells and tastes delicious too. One bite would tell you that it is not just another ordinary neighborhood bread. It has a slight tinge of sweetness and an unmistakable hint of coconut juice. Pairing it up with peanut butter or jelly or cheese would do great disservice to this flavorful bread, so we only bought bottled water to go along with it. It took us more than an hour to get to Plaridel but we only spent around twenty minutes there. I still enjoyed our very brief roadtrip that morning as it became a welcome detour to the lechons and the already irritable yet unavoidable Gangnam tune played in all our family reunions.So if I should I find myself in these parts again, I already know where to momentarily escape from it all, and find Plaridel's pan bisaya which is undoubtedly the best pugon bread I've tasted so far.
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There was a feature in a local inflight magazine about a certain dish called Humba de Iponan late last year. I was curious about it because it supposedly comes from Cagayan de Oro City, my hometown of many years and it is from a barangay very near to our place. However, most of my friends in CdeO have not tried or heard of it. I could only imagine how it tastes compared to my uncle's version, which none of us in the family could replicate to this very day.

One of my highschool friends, who also saw the feature, suggested that I try Fely J's Kitchen in Greenbelt to satisfy my humba fix. He said that it was by far, the version that tasted closest to our beloved pork dish.

Let me get this straight first: humba is not the same with adobo. It is a completely different creature. It is usually characterized by a slow-cooking process, which yields a soy-based sauce that is darker and slightly sweeter. The sweetness though is cut with a slight tinge of saltiness. Furthermore, a proper humba should be very tender and one sign that it is cooked well is that the fat should gloriously wiggle in your plate and helplessly disintegrate when sliced even by just a fork.

James Fajardo everywhere.

So I dragged two friends to try out Fely J's last Sunday. I learned that this restaurant is one of the many successful endeavors of the LJC group founded by the late restaurateur Larry J. Cruz. Two things that I immediately noticed in their menu: that they used one of my favorite fonts and that they serve the usual Kapampangan staples. But there are also Asian-inspired items on the list which I gather were inspired by the many travels of Felicidad de Jesus-Cruz. She is the mother of Larry and the restaurant was said to be named in her honor. It was good that we arrived early for lunch because otherwise, we probably would have waited for a little while to be seated. Diners are mostly families but I imagine that on a weekday, this homey restaurant would be filled with yuppies based in Makati. Our order of Clay Pot Paksiyo Baboy Bisaya was served shortly, but it did not came in a traditional earthenware that I expected. Nonetheless, the fancy-named dish hit my imaginary humba standards spot on. The pork knuckles were delightfully tender such that I did not have to use my knife the entire time. It did not leave a greasy feeling in the mouth too, which in hindsight, is something that I should probably look for in any humba from this time on. But I wrestle with the thought that this was never a healthy dish to begin with. If you take out the fat in the picture, it would not be the cholesterol-laden comfort food that I grew up with.

L-R: KKK and Fely J's Dilis-cious Rice.

We usually eat a lot of rice with humba especially during fiestas and family celebrations. I thought that the Fely J's Dilis-cious Rice complemented well with its sweetness. We also ordered the KKK or the Kare-Kare Klab. It is one of Fely J's best-sellers and was recommended by a waitstaff. But I wished that we also got a salad or the sinigang on the side because our table that Sunday badly needed something that would balance out the rich flavor profiles of our two entrees. I have to agree with my classmate on Fely J's humba. It may not be as good as my uncle's version, but it is quite close to the typical humba that I have been missing all this time. Fely J’s Kitchen 2nd Level, Greenbelt 5, Ayala Center, Makatihttp://ljcrestaurants.com.ph/fely-j/ +632 728 8878 or +63 2 728 8858 Opens daily from 11:00 AM to 11:00 PM
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Someone once told me of a restaurant in Manila that has a live pig tethered right outside its doorsteps. I thought that it just existed in her imagination, but one lazy Saturday afternoon last year, my friends and I stumbled upon Ambos Mundos. The restaurant is indeed real and yes, the pig is very much alive.

Ambos Mundos has been around since 1888 and is considered to be among the oldest food establishments in the Philippines. I’m not sure if our porcine fellow also shared the same history with the restaurant, because if you are a pig especially in this part of the world, you cannot exist that long. You either end up rotating over fiery charcoals during fiestas or find parts of yourself in all kinds of Filipino dishes.

"They all die a natural death," the waitstaff politely assured us. The pig and all its predecessors, we later learned, were good luck charms of the owners. It may have served its purpose well indeed. Although the restaurant is located near two train stations in Recto, it is also stuck in a district that may not be your ideal foodie destination. Yet it still survived to this day, thanks to the pig of course and the many loyal patrons of the Ambos Mundos.

You browse through the restaurant menu in a plastic file folder, the kind that you would usually see in karaoke joints elsewhere.

We ordered the Paella Ambos Mundos and the Callos from the list. There were also pages that contain the food offerings of Wah Sun Panciteria, the restaurant right across the street. This was only possible of course since the present owner of Ambos married the daughter of the owner of Wah Sun. That lunch time, we had not only 'both worlds,' the translation of ambos mundos, but 'both restaurants' as well. No one in our group complained with this win-win situation. It particularly worked to our advantage since the two dishes that we earlier chose might not be enough for all of us. We then added Beef Broccoli and Nido Soup. But I wonder why there were many people eating at Wah Sun that noon. Maybe perhaps it had more animals on display – parrots and live fishes just to name a few. You see, Wah Sun serves predominantly Cantonese fares while Ambos Mundos serves Filipino-Spanish fusion dishes. The latter supposedly takes you back to your fondest memory of Manila which you may have forgotten by now. Unfortunately, I have no nostalgic memory of this city.

The paella and the callos.

My idea though of a good restaurant is that it should provide good food at very reasonable prices. The ambiance, no matter how quirky or how fancy it may be, comes next or even last on my list. If I want a trip down memory lane, I could just go to a museum any time of the week. I could only wish that I experienced the Ambos Mundos that Carlos Celdran described. And that our paella was more flavorful. And that our ox tripe was more tender and was served without the overpowering chorizo and cheese. Maybe we should order other items next time too. And by then, I just hope that I will be raving more about its food than the tired-looking pig of this charming restaurant.Ambos Mundos 750 Florentino Torres St. Sta. Cruz, Manila +63 2 7331160
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There are other animals, aside from Maali, the famous 38-year old Asian elephant, that currently reside at the Manila Zoological and Botanical Garden or the Manila Zoo. It also has Bertha the hippopotamus, some tigers, reptiles and many others. But I must confess that I recently visited this zoo just for Maali, which gained considerable media coverage these days. The PETA (People for the Ethical Treatment of Animals) and various concerned parties have lamented that she has suffered enough isolation and neglect at her tiny enclosure. They want her to be transported to an elephant sanctuary elsewhere.

When I finally saw Maali, I asked myself the following: Does she looked tired? Maybe she needs a friend? How does she deal with all the attention? I could only wish that Maali answered my questions that day.

But I do remember an interesting conversation I had with a zoo caretaker back in Cebu many years ago. He said that we should be careful in describing animal behavior using human emotions because they possess instincts that are primarily different from ours. He added that even if the animals are caged, all they need are the right combinations of stimulus to survive or to propagate or to live a good life.

A vendor selling animal hats and other small souvenirs interrupted my train of thought. I then moved away from Maali's playground to see the other animals on display.

L-R: Palawan Bearcat, Tamaraw and the Blue-naped Parrot. I am not actually sure if what I saw on the aviary was in fact the latter. It was the only one that resembled the picture on the name card.

The Manila Zoo also showcases endemic Philippine wildlife such as the Tamaraw, Palawan Bearcat and a Blue-naped Parrot. You may want to look for them at your visit to this zoo, as these are only found in the Philippines. The cost and chances of seeing them in their natural habitat are expensive and slim, respectively. I then passed by the lagoon where some families are enjoying their time even under the mid-day sun. Some were paddling their rented boats across this body of water that could potentially hold a separate microscopic ecosystem. I recall that when I was still a fat gradeschooler, some of my cousins had their photos taken at this portion of the zoo. Manila Zoo, or at least for me back then, was a destination in Metro Manila. Now that there is the MOA and other malls in the city, it may not be the case anymore. It is said that the Manila Zoo was actually the first of its kind in Asia. It first opened to the public on July 25, 1959. I could only imagine how it looked like back in its heyday. The animal enclosures were probably cleaner. The animals looked healthier. There is probably a long queue by its entrance too. But maybe through the years, there was not enough funds to pay for the upkeep of the place. The entrance fee is just a meager Php40.00 for adults and half of that for children. So if you do the simple math, these fees may not be adequate to foot the rising cost of the animal feeds let alone allot a budget for facility improvement. What becomes of Maali, all the other animals and the zoo as a whole, is anybody's guess. But this challenge should not be left only in the hands of the local government. If the community would find a compelling reason to keep the Manila Zoo for the next fifty years or so, then it should rally with other organizations in pooling additional funds. They might be able to churn in more creative and wilder ideas too, if only to make our next trip to this part of the city more educational, more fun and more memorable as well.Manila Zoological and Botanical Garden M. Adriatico St. Malate, Manila +63 2 3642469 The zoo is open daily from 7:00 AM to 6:00 PM. Entrance fees for Manila residents: Adults - Php 20.00, Children - Php 10.00. For everyone else: Adults - Php 40.00, Children - Php 20.00
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