Baler, the provincial capital of Aurora, is a badly kept secret. It used to be a hush-hush ‘happy place’ among the surfer community and stingy backpackers, but it is not anymore. Yet despite the throngs of people who have been, and continued to be captivated by its wind-swept shores, the birthplace of Philippine surfing has amazingly stayed laid-back and charming through the years.
This is a Baler travel guide of some sort that Mike (michaellibby.blogspot.com) and I have decided to come up with. The honest reason for this collaboration is that we'd like to force each other to blog more frequently than we want to. It's not as exhaustive as a Lonely Planet guidebook, but I still hope that this would be of some help to those who would plan to go to Baler in the future.
Here is Baler then in 7 questions.
Why go to Baler?[Mike] Honestly, the reasons why I visited Baler were lame and personal. I wanted to reach that eastern outskirt of Luzon, because of the following reasons:- I wanted my Lakbayan score to go up.
- My friends have great pictures of them surf-riding Baler waves. I wanted one, too.
- I knew that a movie was shot at the location (Baler, starred by Anne Curtis and Jericho Rosales).
- Plus, a travel article mentioned that it can give me a good view of Sierra Madre, one mountain name I have almost gotten tired hearing back in my high school days. I thought it was time I get up close and personal with it.
- Also, I heard it was the hometown of the then, president, Manuel L. Quezon, and
- Lastly, I am on a trip with my two original travel buddies.
[Bren] Those are actually not lame reasons Mike. In fact, you have enumerated most of Baler’s strongest points, except for the last one of course. For me though, it was primarily for surfing, or at least at the onset. It is said that Sabang Beach is the ideal place for beginners to try out getting ‘stoked.’ The waves there are relatively manageable and its sandy seabed provides an excellent cushion especially during a wipeout.![baler - surf]() |
| Yeah. You can now change your profile picture Mike. :) |
How do you get there, and how do you get around the town?[Bren] For now, only Genesis Transport provides direct bus trips to Baler. Although their schedules are published online, it is advisable that you call their Cubao office (+632 7090545 or +632 4416834) just to be sure. It is also best that you book your tickets in advance, especially during summer and long holidays.
The regular AC bus fare costs around Php 350. We rode however on a Joy Bus, Genesis’ non-stop executive sleeper bus line. For a few pesos more, you would have “lazy-boy” seats which means you can sleep more comfortably during the roughly 5 hour trip. You also have Wi-Fi, a stewardess, a morning kit, a blanket and an onboard restroom - all these conveniences for just Php 700.[Mike] Such is the case if you begin the trip from Manila. However, if you come from places near Cabanatuan City, you may opt to ride on their public utility vans or chance on a public bus (Genesis, 5Stars, etc.) that can take you to Baler for roughly between Php 200-250 in 4 hours. Although batangbaler recommends the Canili-Pantabangan Route, I prefer Baler-Bongabon as per experience. Both routes have unforgiving winding roads and curbs, but I felt my stomach twist more on our way back through the former.
Going around the town of Baler isn’t really expensive if you have no plaints about riding on a tricycle. They collect fares at Php 12-15 depending on the distance. However, you can hire it for the entire day at the minimum of Php 500 (as mandated by the City Tourism Office). If the driver is kind as was the case of Kuya Bernard (+63 9089802956) who took us everywhere we said we’ll go, you won’t have qualms giving an extra Php 300.![baler - the piglet]() |
| L-R: The piglet at the Banyan (balite) tree, Dicasalarin Cove and Sabang Beach. Photos courtesy of M. Libby. |
What can you do there?[Mike] Contrary to what others say about the place being just a simple surfing destination, I realized that it can indeed stoke patriotism especially when you pay Museo de Baler and the house of Manuel and Aurora Quezon a visit. Here are some of the exciting activities we did in the place in summary:- Surf, surf, surf!! (Php 250/hr beginners session with trainer)
- Food trips.
- Sole busting trek to Dicasalarin Cove.
- Historical Tour (museums and Ermita Hill)
- Beach gallivanting (more like beach sighting, Sabang, Cemento Beach, Lukso-Lukso Islets, etc.)
- Swimming in cold water (Diguisit and Ditumabo Falls)
- Root-climbing the Country’s Oldest Balete Tree.
[Bren] Mike, I think you’ve covered pretty much the entire spectrum of Baler activities. Add to that checklist: participate with the locals in their early morning fishing tradition called pukot.![baler - KL Javers Homestay]() |
| KL Javers Homestay |
Where can you spend the night?[Bren] We stayed at KL Javers Homestay (contact Vincent Gonzales +63 9083418527) in Brgy. Suklayin. It is near the market and just a few minutes away from Sabang. For a typical backpacker accommodation (i.e., shared bathrooms), their rooms are clean and their rates are very reasonable (Php 1200 for 3). There is also a gallery of some sort at the second floor where you could see some of Mr. Vincent’s artworks.
But if you’d like an accommodation near the beach, there are a lot to choose from depending on your budget and preference. You may view some of the options here.[Mike] Bren, homestays are definitely fun when on tight budget and more fun when you are with people who’d play UNO using the tiny cards even late at night because it makes you forget that you ran out of water for bathing. However, given the chance to be in Baler again with more “moolah”, I’d stay in Aliyah, and when richer, Bahia de Baler (wishful thinking me).![baler - food trip]() |
| Top left then CW: at the Baler public market, one of the 'rolling stores' and the Baler Surfer Grill. |
What food stops should you not miss?[Mike] Three food items I would certainly recommend in my 3 day stay in Baler.- Paksiw (The Rolling Store) – pork chops boiled until tender in a marinade of soy sauce, bay leaf and seeds, black beans, sugar, and vinegar. What makes this different is the use of fried pork (lechon kawali) instead of the regular roasted pork (lechon baboy). Spending: Less than Php 50
- Tortang Talong (The Rolling Store) – grilled eggplant mashed with spices (onions, bell pepper, garlic, etc), seasoning, and egg. Spending: Less than Php 50
- Steamed Fish (Gerry Shan’s Buffet) – steamed fish seasoned with salt, garlic, onion leaves, and butter (maybe). It was the most fulfilling dish of the many options laid on the buffet table. Perhaps, because it was the only dish served hot. Spending: Php 185 All-You-Can-Eat buffet
[Bren] My three:- Anything being offered at Baler Surfer Grill. We had grilled pork chops with a sizeable portion of rice (Php 60.00). It is the typical ‘surfer’ meal - filling and affordable. But wait, there’s more. It came with caramelized onions and mushrooms. This gourmet touch just made me smile, more than the fact that it was actually grilled on a charming red Beetle.
- Ensaladang Pako – Fiddlehead Fern Salad tossed with salted eggs, tomatoes, red onions and a drizzle of bagoong (fermented fish sauce). Get it at Bay’s Inn or go unlimited at Gerry Shan’s Buffet.
- Sinantol – finely chopped santol meat and cooked in coconut milk. This is my first time to come across this appetizer at LVB Fastfood, one of the food stalls inside the Baler public market.
![baler - dicasalarin]() |
| There's a good reason why only few blogged about this lighthouse at Dicasalarin Cove. |
What would you do differently, next time?[Bren] Here are the things that I wished we could have done:- Find Charlie’s Point. Locally known as “kagewad,” this is said to be the spot where one of the famous battle scenes of Apocalypse Now, Francis Ford Coppola’s classic, was filmed. And yes, that movie is now on my bucketlist, along with that Anne Curtis-Jericho Rosales starrer.
- Squeeze Casiguran or even Dilasag, the two northernmost municipalities in the province of Aurora, in the itinerary. These are off-the-beaten destinations and I could only imagine how the ‘super secret beach cove’ that a friend has been to, look like.
[Mike] Those are interesting! These, however, are how I will address your question:- I won’t go back to Dicasalarin Cove on foot.
- I won’t offer you and Ate Lala Bay’s Inn’s pancakes.
- I’ll surf again minus the trainer.
- I’ll let you hang-out with my camera for longer hours but not my lens cover.
- We will stop at the spot where part of Nueva Vizcaya intercepted the Canili-Pantabangan route.
- I’ll pretend that the lighthouse at the tip of Dicasalarin Cove did not exist. (LOL)
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Tucked away from the crowds at Sabang Beach is Dicasalarin, a secluded cove in Baler, Aurora. From the town center it is roughly 30 minutes away on a car and a little bit longer if one would take a bangka (outrigger boat) from Sabang. My friends and I, however rode on a tricyle, which had to stop at the foot of the hill leading towards the PAGASA Baler Radar Station in Sitio Diguisit. Bernard, our driver/guide apologetically told us that that was as far as his trike could go.
Even if the station is perched 178.2 MASL, the ensuing climb was still steep. Thankfully, we were distracted by the scenic views of pine trees along the trail. Their deep brown fallen needles provided a dramatic contrast on the concrete road. Aside from our heavy breathing, an occasional bird call would interrupt the otherwise silent morning.
A few minutes later, we could already make out the weather station's Doppler radar which resembles like a giant golf ball from afar. I asked the only staff around if we could go up the roofdeck to have an unobstructed view of the cove. He said that we could not do that because they painted the roof a few days earlier.
We could have just gone back at that point. But since we already went this far, we decided to continue walking towards Dicasalarin.
As we descended towards the private beach property in Dicasalarin, we were treated to views of the vast blue ocean on one side, and the lush green jungles of the province on the other. At the back of my mind, I wished that we could zip our way towards that white structure, whose features become more and more recognizable the further we went down the road.![baler weather station]() |
| The 'white thing' at the rightmost section of this photo looks like a crane or a modern art installation. A colleague, who has been to these parts before, did not know what it was. This only piqued my curiosity all the more. |
After what seemed to be the longest unplanned trek of my life, we could finally hear the sound of gentle waves lapping by the shore. Dicasalarin cove is quite expansive, with a wide beachfront, a cool stream running nearby and the forest extending as far as your eyes could see.![various views at the dicasalarin cove]() |
| Various views of the Dicasalarin cove. |
It is not as developed as Sabang, but it has seen a few changes recently. Aside from the beach huts, it also has the Artists' Village, which is said to be 'a communal space where developing Filipino artists can gather together to learn from specialized workshops, or simply find solace away from the madding crowd of city life.'![the long house of the artists' village]() |
| The open-air long house at the Artists' Village combines modern and traditional aesthetics. Aside from paintings done by local artists, it also displays a collection of hardwood furniture. |
We ventured out of the property and continued our way towards the white structure. It turned out to be a lighthouse and the only one of its kind that I have seen in my life. It looked like a deconstructed pyramid, with one side jutting higher than the others. Whether it is functional or not, I am not sure. Maybe we were too tired to care that morning. ![dicasalarin lighthouse]() |
| It's not an artistic monument after all. |
![dicasalarin lighthouse]() |
| Other views of the Dicasalarin lighthouse. |
We rested a bit to soak in the scenery before us. Dicasalarin somehow invoked a certain sense of melancholy, a visual respite for our tired souls. It was ruggedly beautiful and surprisingly calm as well. But I imagine that the cove would look different, especially at certain times of the year when Aurora will brace itself before typhoons coming from the Pacific.![dicasalarin cove]() |
| The Dicasalarin cove, whose waters have varying shades of blue and green, is even more beautiful to look at from the lighthouse. |
It was already a few minutes past noon when we left Dicasalarin. The sun was scorching hot already. I silently prayed that clouds would spontaneously appear out of nowhere, like the dancers in a Bollywood movie. Or that we could somehow stumble across an umbrella along the way. Or that an air-conditioned SUV would save us from walking under the unforgiving midday sun. None of those happened of course. We continued walking, albeit at a slower pace now, back to where we started that morning.
What we experienced that time hovered in between reckless adventure and plain madness. I did not dare ask my companions if getting to that 'white thing' that captured my fancy, was worth the blisters on their feet or the tan on their faces. Thankfully, they were kind enough not to throw me off the cliff that time.
At around 1:00 PM we saw Bernard again. We hopped on his trike, exhausted, hungry and burnt. Strangely enough, we still had the energy to proceed to our next stop in Baler.
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As I write this, I am struggling to remember the song that was played as my friends and I ate our first dinner at Baler, Aurora. It had an angsty boyband-pop feel to it, which contrasts the laidback mood at Sabang Beach. It was already dusk but there were still a few surfers out in the sea at that time, trying to catch their last few waves. There were also those who were just content to watch everything unfold from a distance, with a half-empty ice-cold beer bottle in one hand.
The song’s melody is already lost to me by now. But thankfully, I still remember the meal we had that night. While walking back towards our hotel, we dropped by Baler Surfer Grill, which had a charming red Volkswagen, a few wooden chairs and the requisite decorative surfboards.
Sherwin, the guy manning the chopping station would later tell us that the vehicle is actually in working condition. This means that they can actually show up anywhere they want to. But in the mean time, ZARO 13, the car's name, can be found among the beachfront hotels in Sabang.
The set-up reminded me of Roy Choi's revolutionary food truck business, a concept which has recently popped up at one of the posh malls in Makati. But grilling porkchops on a Volkswagen Beetle - it was Sherwin's grandfather, Lazaro Urfano, who thought of that first. That did not come as a surprise too, since he was among the first and finest mechanics in Baler.Tatay Zaro saw the car's test launch in March 30, 2013. He unfortunately passed away a few days later. The family then decided to continue their beloved grandfather's legacy. After finalizing the recipes and coming up with a refreshing and well-thought of brand concept, Baler Surfer Grill was born.
We had pork belly BBQ that evening. It was served on what looked like an inverted party hat. It also came with a sizeable portion of rice, a combination that most surfers like. But what made me smile is that it came with caramelized onions and buttered mushrooms. This gourmet touch folks, you just can't find anywhere for just under Php 60.00.
They also offer homemade iced tea with kidya or local calamansi. Although that evening, they only had pork belly and baby back ribs/spine on the menu, they promise to have more grill options in the future such as burgers, chicken and fish.
I think that they were quite brave in launching something that is a clear departure from the conventional in Baler - restaurants by the beach or the much-loved rolling stores. Maybe Sherwin and his cousins and his aunts and his uncles are propelled by the good memory of their lolo, so I guess ZARO 13 will be around for a long time.
This is one of the rare moments where I come across a quirky concept that is so simple yet it does make much sense and it does actually work. It was indeed more than an akkaw experience, a term they use to describe something that is good in Baler. It was like guessing the word in 4 Pics 1 Word, sans the help of your brainiac friends or Google. It was an epiphany. You then scratch your head thinking why you haven't thought of something like this before.
After aimlessly searching in YouTube a while ago, I think that the playlist played that night was from Lawson. I could be wrong too but I don't care anymore. I would like to remember that evening for this and only this: that we had pork belly grilled on a red Volkswagen.Baler Surfer Grill
(after Bayler View Hotel & BBC)
Sat: 11:00 AM - 8:00 PM
Sun: 9:00 AM - 2:00 PMhttps://www.facebook.com/BalerSurferGrillhttp://www.discoverbaler.com
+63 9202907571
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September 3, 2013, 9:02 am
The queue to have Prof. Ambeth Ocampo's autograph was already shorter by the time my friend and I returned to the main hall of the Ayala Museum. An hour or so earlier, this venue was packed to overflowing with a mixed crowd of students, museum patrons, and old fans of the the widely-read columnist and well-loved Filipino historian. He has just concluded his series of lectures for this year's History Comes Alive!.
In each installment of the HCA, he would engage the crowd with seemingly useless information, obscure historical annecdotes and meaningful discourse. For an hour or even more afterwards, Mr. Ocampo stays like a willing hostage to those who would like to have not only his signature on the free book that comes with the very affordable entrance fee (Php 350 for adults, Php 200 for students) but also a photo with him (which they would later upload in their Facebook profiles).
Last Saturday, Ambeth talked about Andres Bonifacio, one of the national heroes of the Philippines. This topic was quite timely too since this year is also the sesquicentennial of Bonifacio's birth. Why we don't commemorate his death, compared to Rizal, is a difficult subject that Mr. Ocampo tackled in the latter part of the afternoon.
Ambeth began the lecture by asking us if Bonifacio really looks like the bolo-wielding, angry-looking man depicted in the few monuments dedicated in his honor. Did he really go to the battle garbed in that camisa de chino and shockinlgy red kundiman (trousers) ensemble? And what did he shout especially in that Carlo 'Botong' Francisco mural?
The last question in particular brought down the house when he proposed that Bonifacio must have shouted the 'P.I.' expletive, instead of 'Sugod!' (Charge!) to further stoke the fiery sentiments of his fellow Katipuneros.
The mood was more subdued however when Mr. Ocampo talked about Pinaglabanan, Tejeros and Marigondon. The events that took place here were grimmer than your local soap opera's plotlines. These may also have been every highschool history teacher's dilemma. How could he or she explain to the students that the brave Bonifacio never won a single battle, that the founder of the Katipunan was cheated during the election and that he was executed by his own fellowmen?
I've been to a few of Ocampo's lectures but the hall at that time was perhaps the most silent by far. Prof. Ambeth added that he was a bit apprehensive to end the afternoon on such a sad note, but I think that there was no better way around a dark chapter in our history than to shed light on it. Because when you come to think of it, what Bonifacio went through was not at all different from what we have seen in recent news.
He then ended with a challenge, that it is important that we not only learn from our mistakes the in past, but also, especially in the case of Bonifacio, be liberated from our own history.
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For inquiries regarding next season's History Comes Alive lectures, please email education@ayalamuseum.org or call +63 2 757-7117 to 21 local 24/25/35. You can also follow Dr. Ocampo in his official FB page for other announcements.
Also below are my blog entries on his previous lectures:Doble Kara: Rizal in Art and MonumentsMukhang Pera: Banknotes and NationRizal Ransomed: Saga or Rizal Manuscripts
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September 9, 2013, 8:03 am
Only one word comes to my mind when you mention Baler, the laidback provincial capital of Aurora in Northeastern Philippines: surf. Most would come here with that activity on top of the list. After all, it has long been considered to be the 'birthplace of of Philippine surfing.'
So on your maiden attempt to surf, you try hard to still look your best as you struggle to balance on your board. You do just that, one wipeout after the other, until you have mastered the technique. But once the adrenaline has worn off, you then find yourself both stoked and exhausted. By this time, only one word comes to your mind: food.
Below then are some of the food stops that you might want to check out right after your unforgettable surfing experience at Baler.
The much-loved 'rolling stores' by the town center are actually stationary. This is a row of karenderyas (eateries) that serve very affordable comfort food options.
Now there are many of these stalls and each of these also offer a handful of choices. But if there is one dish that you must try, it is Tripple B's delicious lechon paksiw. Their fiesta-like version was gloriously tender and simmered to utter perfection. Expect to devour heapings of rice with this.
Bay's Inn is one of the many B&Bs along the long stretch of sand at Sabang Beach. When we went there for breakfast, we had their huge pancakes which were served with a sloppy helping of margarine. I'm guessing that pancakes are not their specialty so maybe we should stick to their breakfast buffet next time or their version of garlic chicken, which is said to be one of their bestsellers.
And I must also add that you really have to wait before your food is served. So this is definitely not the place to go for lunch if you don't want to miss your afternoon bus back to Manila.
At Php 185, the buffet at Gerry Shan's Place is indeed a steal. Although some of the options looked like they came from yesterday's spread, you will never go wrong when you hoard on the paco (fiddle head fern) salad, the spicy crabs and the other seafood dishes on display. All these were quite delicious and filling as well.
If it's my first time in a place, I usually go to the market to look for inexpensive food hunts that are thankfully spared by the touristy hoardes. When you come to think of it, what these market karenderyas cook must be fresh since they are located right beside the stalls that sell fish and meat.
At the Baler market, look for LVB Fastfood. They offer a curious mix of Ilocano (such as bagnet) and Bicolano (such as laing) dishes. Try their sinantol too which is an appetizer made of finely chopped santol meat cooked in coconut milk.
And finally there's Baler Surfer Grill. This perhaps is the odd one in the group as it grills pork chop on a working red Volkswagen. The quirky concept is a breath of fresh air, albeit a brave move for the owners too, especially in these parts. We caught the charming bug somewhere along Sabang Beach but you might want to contact them in advance just to make sure where they would show up for the weekend.
While Baler is still on its way to become a foodie destination, there are still many surprising food hunts that can be had there. So after an hour or so of surfing, you might want to skip eating again at your beachfront hotel. Walk around the town. Go to the market. Ask your trike driver where he usually eats for lunch. If you do all these, you might just find yourself in an unexpected yet delicious food adventure.
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September 14, 2013, 2:48 am
Baler in Aurora used to be just an obscure fishing village in Northern Philippines when Apocalypse Now, Francis Ford Coppola's war classic, was filmed there during the 70s. In one iconic scene in the movie, some soldiers were riding out the waves amidst the ongoing gunfight around them.
It is said that when the film crew left, they left behind a few of those boards. The locals then taught themselves how to surf with them and thus began what could probably be the beginnings of a surfing culture in this side of the world.
I haven't watched that movie though when my friends and I recently went to Baler. All I knew back then is that it is one of the few surfing destinations in the country where neophytes can safely try their hand at the sport. Sabang beach is the perfect place to start since its sandy bottom serves as a cushion especially during a wipeout or that priceless Kodak moment where you are overturned from your board.![baler surfing]() |
| Surfing 101. |
My good friend Mike surprisingly had only a few of those moments that afternoon. In just an hour or so, he has already mastered the technique of balancing on a surf board while a gentle yet unpredictable wave carried him back to the shore. I watched his steady progress from afar and occasionally glancing at how the rest of the eager and equally determined people around him fared.
While observing all of them seemingly having the ride of their lives, I deviced a strategy as to how to effectively stand on a moving surfboard. "It sure looks easy," I thought to myself. And the instructions that I overheard from Neil, Mike's instructor that afternoon, were quite straightforward as well. He was in good hands too since we would later find out that the young and unassuming guy has won a handful of surfing contests already.
But I remember too well the stupid ankle injury I sustained last summer. And my embarrassing attempts at wakeboarding also flashed before me like an angry ex-girlfriend on your wedding day. So despite my friends' encouragements, I chickened out, crafted an excuse and declined the opportunity that time.
That I passed on what could be my only surfing lessons in my life is something that I would look back someday either with nostalgia or with regret or both.
Maybe I should just watch Apocalypse Now and then post an intellectually sounding movie review in Facebook afterwards. Maybe there are adventures that I am not destined to overcome.
Or maybe someday, I will never know.
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There are many shops that offer surfing lessons at Sabang Beach. They usually charge Php 300.00 an hour which already includes the lessons and the board rental fee.
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September 15, 2013, 7:31 am
There are other things you can do at Baler, a laidback town in Northern Philippines, besides surfing. The provincial capital of Aurora is undoubtedly one of the best surf spots in the country, but it has a lot to offer beyond the thrill of the sport.
Before it even became the birthplace of Philippine Surfing, it was first the birthplace of a beloved Philippine President - Manuel Quezon.
Indeed, a little dose of history would not hurt as this would provide a much needed in context in your adventures at Baler. Below are the non-surfing activities you could do to make your stay there more meaningful, more fun and more memorable.
![baler - museo de baler, baler church, dona aurora quezon house]() |
| L-R: Museo de Baler, Baler Church and Doña Aurora Argaon Quezon House. |
Walk around the town
Get out of your beachfront accomodation and walk around Baler's town proper. Drop by the Museo de Baler and read about the important historical events that shaped the town through the centuries. One of these is the infamous Siege of Baler where Spanish soldiers obstinately holed up at the Baler Church during the Spanish-American war. News back in the day do not arrive in hashtags, so the Spaniards did not know that their defeated comrades in Manila already left the country.
Right across the church, which is now painted mint green and looks more modern than I expected, is the Doña Aurora Argaon Quezon House. This was reconstructed in honor of the Commonwealth President, Manuel L. Quezon.Buy souvenir shirts
If you walk further along Quezon St, you might chance upon Discover Baler Souvenir Store, which arguably sells the best designed shirts in town. Their prints sport a modern vintage feel which complements the surfing culture that Baler is known for. They also have other interesting items on display - car stickers, homemade peanut butter and limited-edition mugs.
You can also buy other souvenir items at the Pasalubong Center near the public bus terminal. Hoard on the miniature surfboard keychains to give away to your friends on your return.Swim at Ditumabo Waterfalls
Ask your trike driver to bring you to the 140 ft high Ditumabo Falls or 'the Mother Falls' in San Luis, Aurora. It is technically not part of Baler already so expect a longer drive to the jump-off.
The water is freezing cold, but once you get the hang of it, you'll enjoy swimming and even diving at the pool's deeper portions.Dare to climb the century-old banyan tree (balete)
Head next to the 500 year old balete tree which is so large that it would take 60 or so people to circle it. It has a system of aerial roots that has grown massively through time. If you are up for the challenge, climb all the way up through its narrow center cavity. On your way down, you may sometimes scramble on all fours. Should the task be daunting, there are enterprising young locals who are more than willing to lend you a helping hand.Go on a food trip
While Baler is still on its way to become a foodie destination, there are some surprising food hunts that can be experienced there. Try out the so-caled Rolling Stores by the town plaza, the affordable buffet spread at Gerry Shan and the grilled items from Baler Surfer Grill.![]() |
| The Tromba Marina Monument. |
Soak in the views at Ermita Hill, PAG-ASA weather station, Dicasalarin
Located at the eastern portion of Baler, these three provide spectacular views of the town, the ocean and the lush mountain ranges. PAG-ASA and Dicasalarin cove may take some time (and wits too) out of your weekend itinerary, so you'll probably just settle for Ermita Hill in Brgy. Zabali. It is said that this hill served as a refuge by townsfolk when a phenomenal tidal wave called Tromba Marina swept Baler in 1735.Just bum around Sabang beach
And finally, just bum around Sabang beach. Read perhaps a book while listening to the gentle waves rushing to the shore. Walk barefoot and feel the soft sand on your toes. Cheer your friends in their brave attempts at surfing. Or just watch people do what they wanted to do on a perfectly lazy afternoon at the beach.
Maybe they are just like you, they also have a deadline waiting when they return to their messy cubicles. But the strangely magical thing is that at Baler, no one seems to care about that deadline or that nagging regret or that imagined heartache.
Because Baler, whether you will surf or not there, will always be a sweet escape.
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Our trike driver for all our Baler adventures was Bernardino 'Bernard' Aragon. He is a good guy, talks a little but if you ask him the right questions, you'll learn a lot about Baler from him. You may reach him at +639089802956.
The Baler series ends with this post. If you missed out on the other blog entries, they are listed below for your quick reference:Baler in 7 Questions | A Travel GuideBaler Food trip: rolling stores, a red Volkswagen and some places in betweenBaler Surfer Grill: grilling on a Volkswagen and why we wished we've thought of that beforeThat white thing at Dicasalarin Cove and our long midday trek just to get to itSurfing at Baler, Aurora
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September 15, 2013, 8:41 am
For my second 7-Questions blog entry, Mustachio and I will be taking you to the postcard-perfect Coron in Northern Palawan. It belongs to the Calamianes, which is a group of islands known for its purple limestone karst seascapes, white beaches and deep blue seas.
Mustachio is a former colleague, an intrepid traveler and a book hoarder like myself. I am glad that he still agreed in doing this, knowing that I’ve regretfully (and consistently) declined all his travel invitations ever since.
Here’s to hoping that I will be atoned for my travel absences with this blog entry. Meanwhile below is Coron in just 7 questions.
Why go to Coron?[Bren] My quick answer to this is that you can embark on a variety of adventures at Coron: beach bumming, island hopping, shipwreck diving, among many others. But despite the many activities that the island has to offer, it still exudes a charming and laidback feel. It doesn’t pretend to be the next Boracay. And I do hope that it stays that way as well.[Mustachio] My quicker answer to this is: Why not? :D![coron]() |
| Sky, sea, sand. Photo taken at CYC Beach. |
How do you get there, and how do you get around the town?[Mustachio] Grow wings or gills! Impossible? Then grab a ride on something with wings, like a plane. Cebu Pacific and PAL Express fly to Busuanga (Coron) from Manila and Cebu. Or if you’re coming from El Nido and don’t mind floating around for eight hours, take the boat! There are daily boat trips to and from El Nido for Php 1500 per person. In Coron, you can get around in three ways: walk (if you have a lot of time on your legs), hire a tricycle, or hire a van.[Bren] Coron town is small, so everything is just within ‘walking distance.’ ;)What can you do there?[Bren] Don’t leave Coron if you haven’t experienced the Coron island loop tour, climbed Mt. Tapyas to catch the sunset, and dropped by Nanay Lita Escarda’s backyard cashew factory.
You can book your adventures through your hotel/inn or the many tour providers by the town center. The fees, including thebangka (outrigger boat) and trike rental, are fixed so you would not feel ripped off in any way. For backpackers, you can also form/join a tour group through Owen Ferrer’s DIY site. It has all the information (tour packages and travel advisories) that you would need in finalizing your itinerary.[Mustachio] I am sure you will get sore muscles from Brennan’s suggestions (too much swimming during the island loop tour plus climbing the 700+ steps of Mt. Tapyas). Loosen up those muscles with a good soak in Maquinit Hot Spring and you'll be up and running the next day for more adventures: get a tan in the surrounding islands (Malcapuya, Banana, Calumbuyan), check out the former leper colony in Culion Island, or see zebras and giraffes in Calauit Island.Where can you spend the night?[Mustachio] Depending on the ability of your wallet to spew money, there are many options from high end ones to really cheap ones. I stayed in Patrik and Tezz Guesthouse, a simple place that serves my purpose, a place to sleep in. The guesthouse has only four rooms (Php 500-600/room/2 pax) and all four share two bathrooms. Tours can also be arranged through the guesthouse.[Bren] I highly recommend Mommita's Lodge, a residence-turned-backpacking-friendly-lodge owned by the very motherly Mrs. Esther Reyes. It is located right along the national road, and is just a few meters away from the wharf and Mt. Tapyas.What food stops should you not miss?[Bren] I’ll name three:- Try the pitik (slipper lobsters) that are offered in various restaurants in town. It is cheaper compared to the usual lobsters but you can save some more if you can request your hotel/inn to cook some for you.
- Danggit lamayo, for me is the ultimate Pinoy breakfast. It is the product of the curious marriage between marinating and then drying danggit (rabbitfish). You can have one at Foodtrip, an open-air eatery near the public market.
- Savor on Filipino dishes at Kawayanan Grill Station, whose interiors are largely made out of bamboo. The incessant playing of an album from Tribu Calamianen, a local band, completes its semi-exotic vibe.
[Mustachio] May I suggest a shopping stop? Don’t forget to visit the market and buy some danggit lamayo to send to me when you get back. Thank you.What would you do differently, next time?[Mustachio] Definitely stay longer.[Bren] Me too!!! I’ll also find a way to get to Cabugao Lake, the largest lake in Coron, without disrespecting the Calamian Tagbanuas who consider it as a sacred domain. I would also like to stay with a Tagbanua family, even for just a few days. I drool every time I read Jacob Maentz's stunning narrative of his encounter with them.![coron]() |
| The piglet at (L-R) Mt. Tapyas, Calauit and Kayangan Lake. |
Rate your Coron experience.[Bren] It’s 8/10 for me, and that says a lot already considering that I am actually not a 'water person.' ;)[Mustachio] 5/10 only because I haven’t seen the other half of it.
If you have been to Coron already, please do not hesitate to leave your food trip suggestions and other travel tips in the comments section below.
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September 25, 2013, 7:52 am
There are many kinds of travel books. There are some which are elaborate day-by-day account of some guy's backpacking trip across Europe or Indochina. There are also those that tell of an adventure that is mind-blowing crazy yet surprisingly relevant. Rory Stewart's The Places in Between beautifully straddles between these two.
In 2002, Rory walked across post 9/11 Afghanistan in the footsteps of Babur, the first Emperor of Mughal India. He started in Herat and ended his incredible journey at Kabul. Along the way, he saw traces of forgotten civilizations, experienced the hospitality of armed strangers and became intimate with a country that the modern world may have misunderstood all this time.
At the onset, Rory doesn't have a clear answer as to why he wanted to do this rather mad endeavor or why he insisted on walking despite the many offers of safer and faster transportation. Yet as he unravels his story, chapter by chapter, you would be taken into a different Afghanistan, the remnants perhaps of the Afghanistan that Babur may have seen. You would then get a picture of the message that he may have wanted to convey.Just like Babur, Rory 'tells this adventure with impressive modesty.' Despite the obvious perils he had gotten himself into, he never draws attention to himself. There are just a few lines where he would describe the state of his stomach or that of his dog he named Babur. His narrative is replete instead with stunning descriptions of the landscapes and interesting observations of the various villages he encountered along the way.The Places in Between is engaging, poignant and heartbreaking. It is indeed a welcome antithesis to that dreamy travel article you recently read in an inflight magazine. It tells a story in a manner that is daring and at the same time subtle, realistic yet ambitious, objective yet personal as well. This kind of writing is a far cry compared perhaps to most travel blogs or that rather host-centric travel show on cable TV.So skip the Lonely Planet guidebooks for once. This is definitely the kind of travel literature that you may just want to try out next.
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I must admit that the desert megalopolis that is Dubai can never be fully captured in just a few questions. That’s why I partnered with Lady Anne of Lady and Her Sweer Escapes, a Filipino blogger and expat for this edition of 7-Questions. By her answers alone, you could tell that she really knows the Middle East city with all her heart (and all her feet and all her stomach as well). And she does my friends. That’s why I am very grateful that she agreed to this blog collaboration.
Below is our take of the city, in all its contrasting landscapes, rich heritage and ambitious visions.
Why go to Dubai?
[Lady Anne] Dubai is one-of-a-kind. It is cosmopolitan and traditional at the same time! You’ll get to see awesome modern architecture; the tallest tower in the world, a sail-shaped 7-star hotel, a palm-shaped island and more unique man-made structures. You’ll also get to feel the culture and the classic vibe when you visit the historical sites at Old Dubai.
[Bren] If you have a fascination for superlatives, Dubai should be your next destination. In fact, the Guinness World Records recently established an office in Dubai just to address the ‘exceptional growth in record-breaking across the region.’ Yet amidst the infrastructure and economic boom, this city does not forget its rich cultural heritage.
How do you get there and how do you get around the city?[Lady Anne] Most airlines have flights and routes to Dubai. So, wherever you are, Dubai is just one or two airplane rides away!Dubai is a tourist hub. It is easy to get around as the transportation system is well laid out. The Dubai Metro is the cheapest and the most efficient way to see the city. The two train lines run along the main tourist attractions. For places away from the city center, you can take a bus or a cab.[Bren] Hop on a Big Bus Tours double decker bus that takes you around the city’s touristy landmarks. But if you have plenty of time to prepare for this trip, go DIY. With the right combination of bus-train-cab and some walk, you can enjoy Dubai’s famous landmarks at a fraction of the cost.![dubai - largest acrylic panel]() |
| The World's Largest Acrylic Panel. |
What can you do there?[Lady Anne] Dubai offers various activities, from cheap thrills to lavish treats!Dubai may be a fancy city, but it is definitely possible to have fun without spending a fortune. For those who are on a budget, you can see an astonishing musical fountain show at The Dubai Fountain, watch the marine life at Dubai Aquarium (Guinness World Record’s largest acrylic panel) and have photo ops at the foot of Burj Khalifa and at the beach near Burj Al Arab for free. You can also enjoy the Old Dubai by visiting the different kind of Souks, riding the Abra (traditional wooden boat) at Dubai Creek for only 1 AED and having a glimpse of the city’s history at Dubai Museum for less than 5 AED.If budget is out of the picture, you can make the most out of your stay by going on a desert adventure; Desert Safari is a fun and thrilling experience. You can also play in the snow at Ski Dubai and frolic in waterparks (Wild Wadi and Atlantis Aquaventure). A precious piece of jewelry from the Gold Souk is a common souvenir for most tourists.[Bren] Lady Anne has enumerated what should definitely be in a ‘Dubai checklist.’ You can add to that ‘mall hopping’ too: the Dubai Mall, Mall of the Emirates and the Ibn Battuta Mall. Just a word of caution though. There’s no way you can do this in just one day as each of these malls are massive and grand in their own right.![dubai - superlativest]() |
| Just some of Dubai's superlatives. |
Where can you spend the night?[Lady Anne] Whenever my friends come for a visit, I always tell them to choose a hotel near the Metro Station as it could save them a lot of time and energy. London Crown Hotel near BurJuman Station and Flora Creek Hotel Apartments near Deira City Centre Station are usually their top choices.For budget travelers, Dubai Youth Hostel is a popular option. It is where you can spend the night for only 100 AED.[Bren] Back then, I did not stay in a hotel, so thank you for sharing these tips!What food stops should you not miss?[Lady Anne] Everyone should have a classic Emirati Meal. Dine at Al Fanar, a local Emirati restaurant in Dubai Festival City that serves traditional dishes like Machboos Deyay and Leqaimat. You can also join the cultural meal at Sheikh Mohammed Center for Cultural Understanding in Bastakiya.[Bren] Here are my three:- Look for Bu Qtair Restaurant when you find yourself at Jumeirah to see the luxurious Burj Al Arab. Many have been raving about this unassuming restaurant for its affordable and delicious fish and shrimp dishes.
- Try out the Mutton Biryani, Chicken Tikka and other Pakistani delicacies at Ravi Darbar Restaurant. Finish off the meal with a Mango Lassi or a Gulab Jamun.
- Dare to eat a camel burger. I tried one at Local House Coffee Shop located at the Al Bastakiya, a historic district in Dubai. And no, it doesn’t taste like chicken.
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| The Piglet at Dubai. |
What would you do differently, next time?[Lady Anne] I have to gather all my guts and try sky diving above Palm Jumeirah. Anyhow, I live and work here, so I still have so much time to try out all the things that Dubai can offer.[Bren] I'd like to visit an authentic Emirati restaurant. It is said that restaurants like Al Fanar, as Lady Anne suggested earlier, are hard to come by in Dubai because of its growing and diverse expatriate population, who also bring in their cuisine in the picture.Rate your Dubai experience.[Lady Anne] I give it a 9/10! Dubai has been my second home for five years already. I’m loving every step of my journey as an Expatriate in this amazing city![Bren] Same here Lady Anne. It’s a 9 for me. Dubai is not just a city that seems obsessed with Guinness World Records. It is a destination teeming with life and endless possibilities.Have you been to Dubai? Buzz in your thoughts in the comments section below.
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October 12, 2013, 9:13 am
For such a small town, Coron, in the island of Busuanga, provides a variety of food choices - from the beloved eateries to slightly pricey restaurants. Although this picturesque destination in Northern Palawan is more known for its spectacular limestone karst formations, secluded beaches and deep lagoons, there is a food trip that can still be had in Coron.
Affordable Eateries: Trining Bacsa and Food Trip
Start your culinary adventure at Food Trip, an al-fresco karenderya near the public market. I gather that the menu on their whiteboard changes depending on the produce that's available. But you can never go wrong with their dangsilog, a delicious triumvirate of danggit (rabbitfish), sinangag (fried rice) and itlog (egg).
And might I add that they use the danggit lamayo, which has been considered by some as the ultimate Pinoy breakfast.
A few meters away is Trining Bacsa & Restaurant. They serve the typical Filipino comfort food, especially the brown and the gloriously greasy ones. I remember the owner telling me that she was not originally from Coron. But she never left ever since. I forgot to ask her though what the ampersand is doing in their signage.Restaurants: La Sirenetta and Kawayanan Grill StationIf you want a more intimate ambiance, there is La Sirenetta, one of the chi-chi Coron restaurants that are propped at sea and would entail navigating through stilted walkways for one to get to it. I ordered Mika's Pizza, one of their bestsellers. The combination of bacon, eggplant, mushroom, tomato, olives and capers was unfortunately bland for my liking. Maybe I should try their seafood dishes next time.Finally, there's Kawayan Grill Station. The dimly-lit restaurant, with interiors that are largely made of bamboo, remind me of a Survivor Tribal Council set-up. The seafood items in the menu are a little bit pricey for a budget traveler like me. Their serving portions however, are large enough to be shared by 2-3 persons.But among the meals that I had at Coron, nothing perhaps can beat our final lunch, lovingly prepared by Mrs. Reyes, our motherly host at Mommita's Lodge. I asked if we could have Coron's pitik (slipper or rock lobsters), which was offered at Kawayan Grill but was way beyond our budget. But much to my surprise, our spread that morning also had fried talakitok (trevally) and pork bone stew, simmered to tender perfection. And all of these cost just a few pesos more than what we would usually pay for a regular fastfood meal. I could only wish back then that we had the same level of home-cooked goodness in the eateries and restaurants that we tried during our brief stay in Coron.I am now resigned to the thought that food trips will always be a hit or miss affair. There are rare instances where you can connect to the soul of a new town or a new city or a new country by just hopping from one restaurant to the other. Most of the time though, it's just good food or what you would consider as good, since it is better than what you would usually have back at home.But if you're lucky enough, you can have both experiences in a single plate. While I did not have both at Coron, it doesn't mean that it is not a foodie destination. Maybe I just missed some of the town's more notable food stops that time.So if you have been to Coron and discovered some secret food hunts, please leave your valuable tips in the comments section below.
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October 14, 2013, 5:05 pm
There is a bunkhouse at the peak of Mt. Kitanglad (2899 MASL) in Bukidnon in Southern Philippines. Like most hotels or inns, you also need prior reservation to guarantee a slot there. However there are no quick transfers available, so you have to take a challenging trek just to reach this accommodation.
I remember that I climbed Kitanglad with the hopes of seeing a glorious sunrise, a fitting metaphor to start my year back then. But much to my surprise which later turned to dismay, it rained the entire time that fateful weekend.
Aside from a cheesy Miley Cyrus ballad, the only thing that cheered me up that afternoon was finally seeing the PAMB bunkhouse as our small party already neared the peak. It provided us the needed protection from the rain, the howling winds and the biting cold that ensued from that combination.
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| Some of PAMB bunkhouse's ammenities. |
The bunkhouse has a working toilet, running water and a sink. It has a TV, an electric stove and a handful of kitchen implements left behind by its previous guests. It has two rooms, each of which has a couple or so bunk beds. Each bed has a worn-out mattress, a retractable wooden cover and a dangling incandescent bulb. If you've seen the movie Buried, you might get the idea what it is like to sleep in such contraption. But if you also had the same stormy weather like ours, you would immediately throw away your imagined claustrophobia.![PTB Blog Carnival]()
At this elevation, this kind of accommodation is already a luxury. Hardcore mountaineers who are used to prop a tent anywhere in the wild, may even frown upon the thought of spending the night in a concrete shelter such as this.After our brief dinner, I snugged inside my chosen spot, slid shut the wooden covers and stared at my tiny, silent space. I asked myself again and again the reason behind my adventure/madness. But as I struggle between justifying and challenging my reasons, I thought that the bulb started to cheerfully sway as if it was trying to be my friend, a friend that wanted to say that "everything will make sense someday so just shut up already."It proved to be quite a helpful company too as its soft glow gradually warmed my tired body. At that moment of zen, I could only hear my heavy breathing which slowly eased by the minute. And before I even knew it, I was already fast asleep.![PTB Blog Carnival]()
This is my maiden entry to the Pinoy Travel Bloggers' Blog Carnival. This month's theme is My Favorite Room and is hosted by Eileen of The Super Tourists.For previous PTB Blog Carnival editions, press on the PTB Carnival icon on the right.
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October 26, 2013, 5:31 am
The name 'Coron' refers to a municipality, an island and a town. The Coron Municipality is part of the Calamianes, a cluster of islands in Northern Palawan known for their karst landscapes, exquisite beaches and deep seas. It comprises both Coron island which looks like a jagged arrowhead in Google Earth and Coron town where most of the accommodations and dive shops are located.
I am confused myself by all these names. But whether you are referring to the municipality or the island or the town, rest assured that you will have a good time at Coron.
This post however, is all about the clean and laidback Coron town, and what you can do there. If you have time on your hands, you could cover the small town on foot - from Mt. Tapyas to Maquinit Hot Springs and the many places in between.
Mt. Tapyas: catching your breath to catch the sunsetThe typical 'Coron Day 1' would involve Mt. Tapyas since there is not much to do after you check in at your hotel. The reason for that is because most island hopping tours will start early morning the following day.Tapyas is merely 210 MASL. Even so, it still poses a challenge especially for those who have never climbed anything in their life. Perched at the top of this hill is a metal cross that is visible even at sea.How fast you could get to the top depends on the number of selfies and rests you take along the trail. But the view at the peak - the sunset, the nearby islands and the bay would definitely more than make up for the buckets of sweat and your tired knees.Take a relaxing dip at Maquinit Hot SpringsIf you still have the energy after climbing up and down the 718 concrete steps at Mt. Tapyas, then walk the long way to Maquinit Hot Springs, located at the eastern portion of the town. But trust me when I say that you are better off if you hire a trike in getting to and from the hot springs.Pay the Php 150 entrance fee and then choose which pools you'd like to dip into. The smaller ones nearer the grotto are hotter than the large one near the sea. Soak yourself in both and allow the warm water to refresh and sooth your sore muscles. This is indeed the appropriate finish to all your Coron adventures.And the places in betweenA typical Coron town tour starts with Tapyas and ends at Maquinit. Scattered in between these two famous tourist spots are restaurants and eateries, your hotel and other backpacking accommodations and the many homes of Coron's friendly locals.In most of my travels, I am drawn to these stops including the market, the museum and yes, the cemetery even. I think that these places allow us to take a peek as to how the locals get by everyday, with or without the rowdy tourists or that jaded backpacker in sight.Around Coron town, my friend and I chanced upon Lita Escarda's Coron Harvest, a backyard cashew factory and the PAGASA weather station that has the Hollywood-esque signage.![around coron town - L. Escarda's coron harvest]() |
| Lita Escarda's Coron Harvest has the best roasted cashew in town. |
I did not plan these stops by the way. This shows that sometimes, aside from researching or googling what you can do in a new place, it pays to simply ask around. I learned from my few travels, that most of the time, the locals are more than willing to answer your curiosities.![around coron town - PAGASA weather station]() |
| The piglet at the PAG-ASA weather station. |
So ask nicely and engage in a genuine conversation. And if the rare occasion calls for it, be game to drink with them, even if that means downing a of shot of their favorite moonshine.If that is not your idea of a good time, you won't go wrong with just walking around Coron. From Tapyas to Maquinit, and the places in between, you'd be surprise at what this town has in store for you.The Coron series ends with this post. If you missed the other entries, here are they:coron in 7 questions | a travel guideour coron adventures: on and off the beaten paths and destinationscoron island loop tourfoodtrip: Cornl. escarda's coron harvest: the best cashew nuts in coronsunset and sunrise watching at mt. tapyas | coron, palawanBeyond Coron:calauit: a delightful anomalybusuanga: a ruggedly beautiful, off the beaten adventure
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October 27, 2013, 7:27 pm
The Heritage of Cebu Monument is a bronze sculptural tableau located at Parian in downtown Cebu. It depicts the important historical events and personalities that have shaped both the city and the province through the centuries. This was said to be an original idea of the artist Eduardo Castrillo and Alvin B. Garcia, the city mayor when it was still constructed from 1997-2000.
The monument has been a familiar site to me since I lived close to it when I was still reviewing for my licensure examinations. I only gave it a second look a few years ago, when a friend and I tried in vain to identify all the characters and landmarks depicted on the sculpture. It would have been easier if we could just tag the them all in Facebook, but to this day, Magellan, Legazpi and Lapu-lapu and the rest of them, do not have profile pages.
I finally had the time to dissect one of Cebu city's landmarks over the weekend. Allow me to start with the side along Mabini Street. At the far left, we have Ferdinand Magellan and beside him is Miguel Lopez de Legazpi. These explorers manned the Spanish galleons that placed the Philippines in the world map. However they could not have 'discovered' the archipelago because based in their accounts the natives already had a form of government and were already in trade with the Chinese and nearby islands. This is shown by the Chinese and an Arab* trader in the monument. In the middle and the most prominent feature is a tall cross, which we might identify as Magellan's Cross. But it may not be referring to the same cross housed in that iconic kiosk near the Cebu City Hall. According to Balbino Guerrero, a history buff and local tour guide, the one encased in tindalo wood could have been Legazpi's instead. He said in a Yahoo article that 'the chronicler Antonio Pigafetta saw the natives chopping the cross off as Magellan's remaining soldiers left Cebu.'At the other side of the monument you can see these churches: San Juan de Bautista Parish Church, the Cathedral and the Basilica Minore del Sto. Nino. Beneath the churches is a Sto. Niño procession, Fort San Pedro (the oldest of its kind in the Philippines), and something that looks like downtown Colon (the country's oldest street).A figure that looks like a priest is smacked in the middle. If that's Fr. Pedro de Valderrama, then he was the one who baptized Rajah Humabon and his wife into the Christian faith. Then we have Lapu-Lapu at the far right, Mactan's chieftain who led the battle against Magellan.![heritage of cebu monument]() |
| L-R: Sergio Osmeña, Pedro Calungsod and Leon Kilat. |
Finally we have Sergio Osmeña, the 4th president of the Philippines, Pedro Calungsod, who was canonized by Pope Benedict XVI on October 21, 2012 and Leon Kilat* (Pantaleon Villegas), a revolutionary leader.Dissecting the Heritage of Cebu Monument gave me a clearer picture of our collective history beyond our highschool textbooks. But at the end of the day, it does not change at all the fact the monument showed the rich cultural heritage that every Cebuano should be very proud.----------I'd like to know what I missed in this exercise, so please leave a comment below for my further learning. I failed to find an English version of Pigafetta's diary, so I may have channeled Yoyoy Villame's song to fill in the gaps. ;)* inputs from Ka Binoy Guerrero.
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October 29, 2013, 10:03 am
Just like an adorable pug, a puffer fish seems menacing at first, but its unique look grows on you the longer you stare at it. The cuteness meter suddenly drops however, when you'll learn that it is a poisonous fish. It contains tetrodoxin, a lethal neurotoxin that has no known antidote. One puffer fish contains enough of it to kill 30 people.
It is named fugu in Japan and is considered to be a high-priced delicacy. It is said that a chef must have a license to properly prepare the fish to ensure that none of the poison, concentrated in the liver and other internal organs, could spread to its flesh.
A nameless eatery in Pasil in downtown Cebu may not share the same regard for such rigorous measure. How they prepare the fish, locally called as tagotongan, and cook it in a hearty soup as well, could really leave those Japanese chefs scratching their heads.
From the get-go, this eatery looks like most karenderyas in the Philippines, the beloved ones where ambiance and sanitation are not necessary. Four large woks, each sitting on an improvised metal stove were simmering with mystery and anticipation. Beside a Santo Niño altar was a glass enclosure with taxidermized puffer fishes. Two walls painted with every imaginable sea creature added a welcome relief to the packed place.The crew were busy doing what they have to do on a Sunday morning. A motherly figure was manning the soups. The rest of them are taking turns in taking orders, putting heapings of rice or bugas mais (corn grits) on a tin plate and cleaning up after one satisfied customer after the other.A few minutes later, our bowl of larang na tagotongan was served on our streetside table. Larang, might I clarify, is different from your typical tinola. Ginger, scallions, tomatoes and other spices are sauteed first. The fish is thrown in next. Water is then added last. These wonderful ingredients are then mixed, flavored and simmered to the desired perfection.There was actually not much flesh that can be had from the puffer fish. But why should I complain since it came, with its bony head peering out, in a very flavorful stew. Ours that morning had the right mix of sour, salty, spicy and an unmistakable hint of smokiness.I honestly hesitated to try the liver. I imagined my lifeless fat body lying with a trail of vomit by the sidewalk after taking the otherwise forbidden bite. My best friend would then blurt out in his eulogy something like "Brennan, who was dying to experience something exotic and exciting in his life, died joing just that."I gobbled it anyway and waited for my wild imaginations to come true. After what seemed like the longest seconds of my life, it turned out that I was dead wrong this time.Was I just a lucky bastard that morning? I don't know.Would I do it again? In a heartbeat, yes. It is a flavorful dish and dirt-cheap too. You could throw in an elephant's ear in the same cauldron and you would still rave about it afterwards.It is then in situations like this that you just have to blindly trust whatever alchemy the cook was doing behind that sketchy kitchen. Because when you have that kind of mindset, you'll find any kind of meal, this tagotongan dish included, enjoyable, memorable and utterly life-threatening life-altering.
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November 1, 2013, 7:07 pm
I played the accidental tourist guide when two of my good friends and I sneaked in to Cebu almost a year ago. It was not a role that I wanted to play at the onset, since these are very voracious foodies. I gave in since I realized halfway in our flight that they also did not have a luxury of choice anyway. They were stuck with me, since they can only understand and speak two basic sentences of Cebuano, the native language spoken in these parts.
Chinese NgohiongWe started with the puso, the ngohiong and a bottle of ice-cold Sparkle. Puso or 'hanging rice' is rice cooked in palm strips woven to look like a 'heart.' Ngohiong on the other hand is similar to a lumpia, but has a thicker batter, made of julienned ubod (heart of palm) and the optional meat portions.These three comprise the quintessential value meal for the every day joe in the city. They are dirt-cheap, gloriously greasy and very filling. Each Cebuano has his or her favorite ngohiong place where they can get these, but mine is that unassuming eatery along Manalili in the downtown.Cafe Elysahttp://www.cafeelysaparian.com/I actually hesitated to include Cafe Elysa in our itinerary. This small restaurant in Parian serves both home-cooked Cebuano meals and Asian-inspired dishes. The latter is largely influenced by Chef Steve Aznar's many travels abroad.We ordered the Tangigue Ceviche along with two more items from their menu. I had an unpleasant experience with this kinilaw dish on my first visit here. But to my surprise and relief, the fish this time was fresh. We later learned that they use the local tubâ (coconut vinegar) for the sauce, which is mildly sour with welcome hints of sweetness.Bo's Coffeehttp://www.boscoffee.com/We then had a coffee break at Bo's Coffee. It has been around Cebu, long before having your morning brew in coffeeshops became fashionable and at times, necessary. Steve Benitez started with just a coffee cart at a mall in 1996. Today, Bo's is everywhere in the country, with 50 branches and counting.Aside from the fact that they use Filipino-grown coffee beans, I also like their house blend here. It exudes a rich flavor but without that acidic aftertaste. It pairs nicely with their cakes and cookies.ZubuchonZubuchon Facebook PageDinner was at the Escario branch of Zubuchon Restaurant. This was the result of the many creative experiments of Joel Binamira, the food blogger behind MarketManila.com. Mr. MM wanted to recreate the lechon (roasted pig) sans the artificial seasonings, or just the way it was before. Everything paid off when Anthony Bourdain, in his visit to the Philippines in 2008, proclaimed it as his 'best pig ever.'A Zubuchon may not be the lechon that many grew up with. But just think of it as the local version's long lost artisanal sister. Order the healthier kamias shake with it and a vegetable dish, to atone for your lechon guilty pleasure.Tablea Chocolate Cafehttp://www.tablea.com.ph/Finally, we had breakfast at Tablea Chocolate Cafe - puto maya (rice cake) with fresh mangoes and chocolate drink. You don't consume each separately as the magic only works when you combine them in pairs such as puto maya with mangoes or puto maya drizzled with hot chocolate.The hot chocolate was mildly sweet, dark and thick. It reminded me of my childhood days when our chocolate drink did not come from powder packs. Everything had to be made lovingly from scratch - from grinding the tablea up to creating the foamy texture using the batirol.It is impossible to eat around the best of what Cebu has to offer in just 2 days so I hope that my friends enjoyed the food trip as much as I did. It was a nostalgic blast for me as it made me remember the many reasons why this city in the Philippines will continue to have a huge space in my stomach and a special artery in my heart.
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November 6, 2013, 5:37 am
Just when I thought that I knew Iligan like the back of my hand, I was surprised to find out how ignorant I am of this city all this time. You see, I was born here. I went to college here. But as I read Lisa's (of Pinaytravelista.com) answers below, I just wanted to belt out that sappy song with annoyingly depressing lyrics: "I've been to (insert name of place here) but I've never been to me."
I am very grateful indeed that Lisa agreed to this 7-Questions collaboration. She is based in Iligan and is the current president of Iligan Bloggers Society. Although we went to the same state university back in the day, I have never met her in person. We do have a lot of common friends, especially in our college debate days and in the local travel blogging scene.
Why go to Iligan?[Bren] Iligan used to be just the other urban city in Northern Mindanao. But despite that and the many challenges it has faced in recent times, it is now a city that is holding pretty well on its own.Where else can you find more than 20 waterfalls within the city proper, a lechon (roasted pig) that could give those Cebu purveyors a run for their money and that infamous painting where former President Gloria Macapagal Arroyo posed ala Titanic-Kate Winslet (but with clothes of course)? Those, and many more surprises, are all in Iligan.[Lisa] Maybe I am the hometown-waterfall-chaser-girl-next-door kinda gal, and we agree on the waterfalls in Iligan Bren! I like exploring Iligan City because it gives me both pride, and joy to having natural beauty in the form of waterfalls in my own hometown when I am not off to wandering to other places. Iligan City gives you a laid back feel, an exercise of your taste buds, and the sense adventure going off waterfall chasing. It's cultural history is as rich as the festive colours of "Dumagats" (now Christians), Maranaos (Muslims) and Higaonons (lumads or natives) jointly paying homage to St. Michael, the city's Patron Saint as they celebrate Diyandi Festival every September.![iligan cit - maria cristina and mimbalut falls]() |
| 2 down, 18+ to go. Some of Iligan's cascades. L-R: Maria Cristina and Mimbalut. |
How do you get there and how do you get around the city?[Lisa] The closest airport to Iligan City is via Laguindigan International Airport, and is also accessible via ferries directly bound for the city or at Cagayan de Oro, and/or Ozamis City. Iligan City is also accessible by land trip from Cagayan de Oro, Marawi City, Ozamis City, and hopefully directly travel from the province of Bukidnon once the highway linking both is finished.The city proper is best to be explored by foot, but Public Utility Jeepneys, and taxi is available. Some areas is accessible via habal-habal, and tricycle. Tartanilya is still used as mode of transportation in the city as well, but is only allowed transport passengers on specific streets in the city.[Bren] I have to agree with Lisa that it is best to just walk around the city. If you do not have time on your side, just ask the friendly locals for directions and tips.![iligan city - timoga]() |
| Dela Mar Resort at Timoga. |
What can you do there?[Bren] Iligan is not called the City of Majestic Waterfalls for nothing, so waterfalls hopping should be in your top agenda. You have the majestic Maria Cristina, the Tinago Falls where that KC Concepcion-Sam Milby movie was shot and 20 or so others to choose from.But if there's only thing that you have to do in Iligan, it is this: swim at Dela Mar Resort's Olympic-sized pool. It is one of the many cold spring resorts at Timoga in Barangay Buru-un. You can pee without guilt in the pool because its cool waters flow endlessly from its source to the sea. (Hey, everyone has done that at some point in his or her life!) Kidding aside, it is to this day, my personal standard for swimming pools and spring resorts.[Lisa] There are four accessible waterfalls I would recommend that one must see: Ma. Cristina, Tinago, Dodiongan, and Mimbalot Falls. Of the four, Ma. Cristina, Tinago, and Mimbalot Falls are geographically located near each other, and is called the Tourism Triangle of Iligan City.If there's this other thing that Iliganons are too proud of is the abundance of flowing water in its Spring Pools. It is not a wonder why you choose that one too, Bren. Timoga Spring Pools are ideal for barkadas, and family to enjoy the cool flowing water of these pools. You might also like to visit the City Hall, and also check out the Anahaw Amphitheater at the Buhanginan Hills preferably late in the afternoon for some sunset shot overlooking the city, and the Iligan Bay.The best time to travel to Iligan City is during the month-long Diyandi Festival on September to witness the Pag-kanaug, street dancing, and other festivities happening in the city.Where can you spend the night?[Lisa] There are several types of accommodations your traveling company can check out Jasmine's Pension Home, D'Morvie Suites, Rene's Pension House can accommodate any type of travelers. For businessmen traveling to the city, you can consider Elena Tower Inn, Cheradel Suites, Plaza Alemania, or Corporate Inn.[Bren] I've never stayed at a hotel in Iligan. :) But thank you Lisa for the suggestions. My family would be staying in one during my cousin's wedding soon.What food stops should you not miss?[Bren] Here are my recommendations:- Try the halang-halang stalls at the wet market. It is a spicy soup of beef cuts and innards, a perfect hangover fix indeed.
- Did you know that the first Sunburst Fried Chicken Restaurant is in Iligan? It also has been around the city, long before those fastfood franchises set foot here. At less than Php 150.00, you can never go wrong with the Sunduo - 2 chicken pieces that come with chilled coleslaw, fries and rice.
- Satisfy your porcine cravings at Jaime's Lechon Bayug. The lechon meat is already well-seasoned such that drowning it with Mang Tomas is absolutely not necessary.
[Lisa] If you're into anything grilled, and seafood, then you must check out Jacko's Kan-Anan --- a must-try is the Crispy Squid. Any Iliganon has their own choice of lechon house, I prefer Jaime's Lechon, and Edi's Catering for their Spicy Lechon that I, personally, love over any other lechon I have tasted. For dessert try Tita Fannies Halo-Halo sa Buko, and/or Tedt's Cupcakes. For coffee lovers, Brew's Almighty for Durian Cappuccino, and Kopi Luwak for Civet coffee mix, and blends.What are pasalubong options from Iligan?[Lisa]There are top 5 pasalubong options one must take home for pasalubongs for the family, friend, and workmates.- The Cheding Peanuts is popular among the greaseless peanuts in the market.
- Suka Pinakurat comes in packages that can be checked-in at the airport to increase our appetite in anything that needs sawsawan on the table.
- Piaya de Iligan has one of the subtly sweet tasting piayas I had that goes well with coffee.
- Kopi Luwak premium organic coffee beans is available at their coffee shop; and
- Keepsakes Iligan can provide you with non-perishable items, like keychains, and refrigerator magnets for those collectors, to remind you of your visit at Iligan.
[Bren] A loud hear-hear for Cheding's Toasted Peanuts! They pair quite well with an ice-cold beer too.![iligan city]() |
| The piglet at the NPC Nature's Park. |
Rate you Iligan City Experience.[Bren] It is a 6/10 for me. I am ashamed to admit that although I've spent quite a number of years in Iligan, I haven't explored the city as much as I wanted to. I've only been to 2 waterfalls! It's about time indeed that I pay my birthplace another visit.[Lisa] Currently, Iligan-based, I would rate Iligan City experience at a 7.5/10. Enough for people to want to visit it, to keep going back for more, and enough window for some improvements on transportation, safety, and tourist area development. I hope to see Iligan City at its highest travel destination potential, as it is gearing itself towards that direction.So the next time you plan a Northern Mindanao adventure, include Iligan as one of your major pitstops. Head only to Timoga and Maria Cristina Falls if you are pressed for time. But if you like what you see along the way, by all means stay longer my friends. It's a decision, that you will never, ever regret.Photo Credits: The beautiful photo of the Maria Cristina Falls is courtesy of M. Plaza and the map of Iligan City was taken from Wikipedia.
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November 10, 2013, 4:39 am
Into Thin Air is Jon Krakauer's personal account of the 1996 Mount Everest tragedy. On May 1996, Everest claimed the lives of several climbers, some of which are experienced guides that have been to the world's tallest mountain several times already.
What could have gone wrong and what may be done to avert similar tragedies in the future are narrated in this book. I say 'could have' because Krakauer's account was not taken well by some. Aside from the victim's loved ones, there is also Anatoli Boukreev, a Russian climber belonging to a rival guiding agency, who had a different side to his story.
Halfway through the book, I wondered myself what an Outdoor writer such as Jon was really doing in this particular Everest expedition. He did prepare hard for this climb so he was not a liability in any way to his team. But could he have done anything at all to prevent that tragedy in the first place? Thankfully, this question was addressed in the final chapters of the book.While I have no ambitions of climbing Everest in my lifetime, I still found this book an interesting, gripping and important read. In Into Thin Air, Krakauer beautifully captured both the misunderstood loves and the hidden perils in climbing. Knowing then why you climb, be it Everest or not, is equally important as the techniques and the disciplines you must learn beforehand. These motives may push one to scale greater heights or may endanger his or her life by doing just that.
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November 12, 2013, 5:08 am
My friend, in the most perfect Waray, asked the ladies behind the V-hire counter why our van did not yet depart as scheduled that morning. An interesting exchange then ensued, of which I understood only a few words. I noticed too that they spoke with such fiery passion, but my friend assured me that they were not angry at all. A few minutes later, our assigned driver emerged out of the small office. He then signaled to us and to the other anxious passengers to quickly board the waiting van for Guiuan, a small municipality in Eastern Samar.
A few minutes later, we breezed through the majestic San Juanico Bridge, basking in the soft glow of the new day. We also glimpsed Basey and its famous karst formations, some of which appeared to be lonely sentinels of the sea. At this distance, I could still make out the Tacloban cityscape, although it's just a blurred dash over the horizon.
The other scenes that unfolded in the roughly 4-hour trip reminded me of my parents' hometown in Mindanao - vast agricultural fields, near deserted roads and a few farming villages in between. But at the back of my mind, I know that there is more to Eastern Samar than these. The province, in my opinion, is still among the underrated tourist destinations in the Philippines.
As soon as we arrived at the town center, we hopped on a potpot (a local pedicab), that took us to the The Church of the Immaculate Conception, one of the tentative extensions to the Philippine Baroque churches inscribed in the UNESCO World Heritage List. The church's massive front doors was shut closed that time, so we asked a staff if there's another way in. Maybe she was amused by our explanations as to why we visited Guiuan, that's why she also accompanied us inside.Like most 18th century Spanish churches in the Philippines, Guiuan church's interiors and retablo are intricate and grand. I looked up and marveled at its beautiful painted ceilings. Perhaps the local artisans back then did not know that they were actually implementing Baroque aesthetics but using locally available materials - corals among many others. The baptistery was unfortunately locked so I was unable to see its interiors, which are said to be adorned with all kinds of seashells.We then bade our impromptu guide goodbye. But as we are about to leave the church, she handed me a photograph of the baptistery that she took out from one of their file folders. I refused of course, but she insisted that I take it with me since they always see the real deal every day. It was a magnanimous gesture that I would look back now with much fondness and gratitude.The staff's name is lost to me by now. I just hope that she, her family and everyone else in Guiuan are accounted for as I write this blog post. As you may have heard in the news, it was devastated by Typhoon Hainan (local name: Yolanda) over the weekend. There are just no words for the onslaught that the destructive typhoon brought not only to this small community, but to that of Tacloban as well, and the rest of the Visayan islands on its path. There are simply no words.![souvenirs from guiuan]() |
| My fondest Guiuan souvenirs. |
As I reviewed the timestamps of my photos, I realized that we only spent around 30 minutes or so at Guiuan. When you consider the long travel time we took to get there, you can say that it was indeed a rush, mad adventure. So if given another opportunity to visit this place, I'll stay for the night to get to know it a little bit more.Here's then to all our shared hopes and prayers that everything will get better there in Guiuan, all in good time.----------If you'd like to volunteer or give to the Yolanda Relief efforts, infomation is provided in the ABS-CBN Sagip Kapamilya site. Rappler also has a comprehensive list of other NGOs and drop-off centers here.
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December 16, 2013, 3:48 pm
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Do you plan to go on a vacation so that you can relieve the day to day and the office stress? Do you plan to spend some quality time with your family and loved ones? Well it doesn’t matter what the reason for travel is, the significant thing is to find a hotel like billige hotels in münchen that provides the good and friendly service as a whole.
However, before you start to check out for a hotel to stay, you need to do one important. You need to check out for some important aspects before choosing a hotel and making sure that it is worth of your money, unless you are choosing some of the best hotels in münchen. First and foremost thing that you need to find out is the location.
No one likes to live in a hotel that is located in a remote area away from the civilization. You are trying to spend your vacation and having an enjoyment, not trying to hide out away from the cops or your enemies. Therefore, it is kind of important that you take into account where the hotel is situated. There are various hotels like billige hotels in münchen, but how can you confirm that the location of the hotel is good.
Well, it is simple. You need to find out whether the transportation is accessible and the place is beautiful. This will ensure that you can easily go to places that you want. Another most significant aspect that your hotel should have is cleanliness. Of course, just imagine if the hotel is dirty and unclean, you will not find any person stepping into it. No one will dare to stay in that hotel for a night. In addition you are bound to get stressed if the hotel in which you are staying is not clean.Therefore, it is quite vital that you ensure the hotel in which you are staying is clean as it will really help in making you feel fresh throughout the entire vacation. Basically on a vacation, we always want to relax and eat good food. So, it is important that you choose the best hotel like best hotels in münchen. Therefore, it is important that before you choose a hotel, you have to do an in-depth research. Once you choose a hotel, you need to remember that there is no turning back.-----------Disclosure: This is a sponsored post contributed by Mitch Harmatz - a blogger, computer engineer student and webdesign enthusiast. He likes to write on freebies, news, tips and tutorials for the web design community.
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At this elevation, this kind of accommodation is already a luxury. Hardcore mountaineers who are used to prop a tent anywhere in the wild, may even frown upon the thought of spending the night in a concrete shelter such as this.After our brief dinner, I snugged inside my chosen spot, slid shut the wooden covers and stared at my tiny, silent space. I asked myself again and again the reason behind my adventure/madness. But as I struggle between justifying and challenging my reasons, I thought that the bulb started to cheerfully sway as if it was trying to be my friend, a friend that wanted to say that "everything will make sense someday so just shut up already."It proved to be quite a helpful company too as its soft glow gradually warmed my tired body. At that moment of zen, I could only hear my heavy breathing which slowly eased by the minute. And before I even knew it, I was already fast asleep.
Do you plan to go on a vacation so that you can relieve the day to day and the office stress? Do you plan to spend some quality time with your family and loved ones? Well it doesn’t matter what the reason for travel is, the significant thing is to find a hotel like billige hotels in münchen that provides the good and friendly service as a whole.